I’m not sure that title could get much longer…
Do I know how to cram a lot into a road trip or what? Yes, we were in the United Kingdom for 10 days and we saw about as much as one could hope to see of the country in such a short time. And as an avid hiker traveling with a non-hiker, I did surprisingly well getting outdoors considering all the time we spent in the car and visiting castles (our main objective).
Besides all the footsteps needed to visit 17 castles in 10 days, I managed to sneak in quite a bit of walking as we visited each area of England, Wales and Scotland. Actually, Wales was all castle paths and I will have to return for trail hiking. I hear there is this place called Snowdonia that is not supposed to be half bad…
These are 10 ideas For day hikes on long distance trails in the UK that offer just a glimpse of what the UK has to offer in both short jaunts and long distance hikes. They were easy to access by road and short enough that your children will enjoy doing them as a way to get out of the car on those long road trips.
From the rugged coastline to quaint countryside to mountain foothills, there was so much beauty to experience in just a mile or two. Who knows, maybe they will catch the hiking bug too!
And in honor of this recap of my UK hiking, I share this year’s Go Outdoors Camping Cookbook at the end. The theme this year was healthy recipes for kids and I contributed three tasty treats. Make sure to check out the link below!
So just where did I walk?
Stonehenge and Durrington Wells Circular Route, Sussex
Stonehenge is an incredibly popular destination and you can take a bus from the visitor’s center to the main attraction. However, if you want to stretch those legs a bit more, there is a walk you can take instead.
The English countryside stretches out ahead and you may have to share the trail with a few of the local bovines. Along the way are kiosks that talk of the various historical landmarks as you travel to the iconic Stonehenge.
If you paid the entrance fee, you get to walk around on an inner circle and enjoy a self-guided tour. If you opted to go the free route, the path you came in on does allow you to walk an outer circle and still view the stone sculpture.
For those with more stamina, there is a 5 mile (8km) loop trail you can do that takes you by Durrington Walls and other historical Bronze Age sites in the area. Not technically a long distance hike but it is a great warm up for the following hikes. You can find more information here. You can walk this for free but there may be a parking fee.
Watership Down and South Downs Way, Wayfarers Walk, Bridleway and Three Downs Link, Sussex
There was no way I could travel to England and not visit the location of one of my favorite books of all time, Watership Down. After navigating a web of harrowing English roadways not wide enough for one car let alone two to arrive at a tiny pullout where the Three Downs Link crosses, I ventured up the path in search of rabbits.
It turns out that the rabbits no longer roam the hillside due to development (yes, just like in the book) but it was a lovely stroll up to views of the countryside. The path was lined with the chalk white coated flint that is common in the south of England.
Watership Down is part of a series of three downs and a trail runs over them that connects with the South Downs Way National Trail and Ridgeway National Trail long distance trails. The Three Downs Link is 102 miles (164km) and it was interesting to see little hedges marked off for camping along the way.
So peaceful. I can see why Richard Adams fell in love with this landscape and imagined the life of rabbits that found its way into his classic novel. You can find out more about Three Downs Way here,the connecting South Down Way to the chalk coast here and the more northern Ridgeway Trail that crosses the Thames here. This is a free walk and information on locating the down itself can be found here.
Durdle Door and The South West Coast Path, Dorset
So, our trek was just down to the see the seascape of Durdle Door and the Jurassic Coast but it turns out this roadside stop bisects the 630 mile South West Coast Path National Trail.
The longest national trail in England runs along the southern coast and up western coast of Cornwall. If this small snapshot is an indicator of how beautiful the scenery is, sign me up!
Reminds me just a tad of hiking here at Ebey Landing on Whidbey Island but on a much grander scale. This was free but we paid for parking. You can find out more about this section of the trail here.
Land’s End to John O’ Groats, Cornwall
We visited Penzance and Cornwall for a few days, a bit more of the English Coast. My son wanted to sleep in for a few hours before we went to see St. Michael’s Mount which didn’t open until 10am, so I went in search of trail.
There is a patchwork of trails that that runs from Land’s End all the way to the tip of Scotland made up of many smaller trails. The 303 mile (488km) Land’s End Trail links with the aforementioned Ridgeway Trail to take hikers on their journey north.
The visitor’s center wasn’t open yet but I made my way along the coastal path to explore more of the Atlantic Coast. It had a feeling similar to walking the Washington Coast but the geology and flora was different in some ways. It truly felt like standing on the edge of the world.
You can read more about this area here. If you come during open hours, there are shops and touristy things to do. My walk was free and because I was there before they opened (about 8am), so was the parking. And as an extra bonus, if your kids were disappointed not to see bunnies at Watership Down, they were hopping all over the place here!
Porthcurno and South West Coast Walk, Cornwall
I still had some time to kill before my son woke up, so I drove over to Minack Theatre close by. The grounds would be closed (until 9:30am) but I wanted to see it anyway. Turns out, there was a trail there, too!
The South West Coast Trail continues its journey from Durdle Door around and north on the coast. The drop down to the path was a bit steep (by road trip standards) but once I was there it was a gentle walk along the cliff wall. If you have little ones or someone skittish at heights, there is an access point further south you can park at. A kiosk in the parking lot describes how to get there.
Can you just picture yourself here on a sunny day with a blanket and picnic? I wish I would have known and I would have packed breakfast!
The acorn symbol designates national trails in England and most of the trail has open views of the Atlantic Ocean but there was a section where I walked through a hallway of dense foliage. One of the cool discoveries of this walk was a landmark for where the transatlantic submarine telegraph cable used to run from New York to England! There used to be a small hut located here.
Looking over the ledge, I think I could see where it had come up out of the sea. There was a column of mortared brick between a crack in the rock that must have covered it from the elements.
I wanted to just keep on walking but time had me turning around back to my car after a mile or so. It also turns out that badger scat is quite similar to bear scat in England, too!
For more information about this section of the South West Coast Trail, head over here. To park at the theatre was free but there was a donation box for dropping your coins into.
St. Michael’s Mount, South West Coast Path, Penzance
If you want an urban hike that includes a boat ride, this one is perfect! From downtown Penzance, it is a 2 mile stroll along the seawall on a paved ADA boardwalk to the famed St. Michael’s Mount castle.
The grounds open around 10/10:30am but you often have to wait for the tide if you want to walk across the paved walkway you see in all the pictures to the castle. So, we took the boat over while the tide was still in, visited the grounds and then walked back across when the tide went out.
You can learn more about this walk here and St. Michael’s Mount here. To visit the castle and gardens had a fair fee, but the boat ride was only 2£ for adults and 1£ for children and you can visit the island (picnic tables, historical museum, shops) without entering the main grounds. On the mainland side, there was a beach to explore and playground for the kids.
Can’t quite make the 4 mile round trip for this walk? There is a car park across the street, roughly 3£. And for the most delicious fish and chips (gluten free, too), try Frasers in Penzance.
Tintagel Castle, South West Coast Path, Tingagel
Clearly, the South West Coast Path has a lot to offer a hiker! Up the coast from Penzance is a castle attributed to King Arthur and his Round Table of knights.
From the castle grounds, views of the coast and trails that run along it call to be explored! Kids of all ages will love posing with King Arthur himself or wandering a garden where Iseult may have once walked with her lover, Knight Tristan.
A newly constructed bridge connecting the landmass opened to the public this August (of 2019). So glad we visited on the old weathered bridge…not.
For more information about Tintagel Castle, visit the English Heritage website. This castle was included in the pass we bought! For more information about the South West Coast Trail in this section, visit here.
Mitchell’s Fold Stone Circle and Stapeley and Rorrington Trail, West Midlands
This was as close to hiking in Wales as we got for our trip. It turns out there was a stone circle named after my son so we made it a stop on our drive to Conwy. Of course, you enter Wales, leave Wales and then enter it again before you get to the northern coast and this trail was in a little blip back into England.
To get to the stone circle, you follow a trail up onto Stapeley Hill. Parking was small and up a gravel road you won’t want your car rental company to know about. We shared the trail with a few folks out walking their dogs but had the stone circle to ourselves.
The stone circle was modest but how can you complain if it bears your name, has no crowds and is surrounded by this gorgeous scenery? One of the things I loved about this stone circle in compared to Stonehenge was that the solitude helped to foster a connection to the earth and the ley lines that these structures are believed to originate as a way to travel the country before maps and GPS.
This historic site is part of the English Trust but there was not entrance kiosk or fee. You can read more about the history of the circle here.
Housestead’s Hadrian’s Wall Roman Fort and National Trail, Northumberland
There is a 84 mile (135km) long distance path that stretches coast to coast along the 73 mile (122km) Hadrian’s Wall in Northumberland but you will find numerous stops along the way to explore the ruins of this ancient Roman fort with just a day hike.
I saw a few hikers with backpacks take off along the moss covered stone wall but most people were content on roaming the remains of the fort rooms and courtyards. We could see for miles in every direction and it was obvious why the Romans chose these hillsides to guard from the “barbarians”.
To walk the wall and visit the fort was free but the parking lot had a fee, as well as the visitor’s center and museum up on the hillside with the fort. We bought a 9-day overseas English Heritage pass that covered our visit (parking extra). It was a crazy good deal for how many times we used it.
Holyrood Park and Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh
Ah, Scotland. The skies were dreary as we crossed the Scottish Borders but by the time we reached the city of Edinburgh we were graced with a brief clearing long enough for me to climb to the top of Holyrood Park, an eroded volcano cone on the outskirts of town.
If you have visited Rattlesnake Ledge outside Seattle or Camelback outside Phoenix, the hike is similar. A ton of people all trying to carve out their own little niche or cram onto the same rocky outcropping.
There were plenty of paths allover the landscape, if one wanted to I’m sure you could wander for hours. No switchbacks here and the top is reached over an easy rocky scramble. Expect high wind and cooler temps at the top!
A silvery sundial rests at the summit that gives fun distance facts to locations in Scotland and abroad.
If you’d like to give it a visit to this Edinburgh highpoint, check here for current conditions and directions. It is a city park and parking was free but expect crowds and possibly parking at an overflow lot further away than the trailhead. The road up to the trails has a sidewalk and a fun pond with ducks that kids will love.
John Muir Museum and John Muir Way, Dunbar (BONUS!)
My last stop doesn’t technically count as a hike BUT it is the beginning/end of the John Muir Way and a must do if you love this iconic conservationist and writer and want to learn more about him and his accomplishments.
John Muir was not well appreciated in Scotland until he made his mark in the United States but the country is making up for it. The 134 mile (215km) multi-use path across Scotland was built and this museum covers his story from childhood until his death with each floor you go up.
I plan to do a whole post just on the museum but I will say if you are in the area you have to pay it a visit. Even my non-hiking 21 year old son loved it long enough to read all the information kiosks and watch a short video with me. I call it a win!
You can find more about the John Muir Way here and the John Muir Birthplace Museum here. The museum was free to visit and street parking was free but limited.
So, even if you are not set out to do a lot of hiking on your UK road trip, there are plenty of ways to sneak in some outdoor time or appreciation of the beauty of this wonderful country. And if you would like some ideas for kid-friendly camping meals and snacks, check out the Go Outdoors Camping Cookbook for 2019.
For more pictures and overview of our UK road trip, read We Made It Home and our reason for traveling there in the first place in In Search of Castles. You can read about how I did my best to eat paleo while on our trip, too. Look for more about our trip in the upcoming months.
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