This is a short series on my backpacking trip on the High Divide and Seven Lakes Basin in Olympic National Park.
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Up again at 5am with the sun, the day promised a few more clouds than the one before. Still, I was hopeful I would continue to have better views than last year as I made my way along the High Divide Trail on the third day of my Seven Lakes Basin loop.
After using the privy, I once again made breakfast with the addition of huckleberries I picked around my campsite. Leaving some for any bears, of course.
I lazily strolled on the paths on either side of my site as the quiet morning advanced.
Packed up at 6:30am, a local came to assess my Leave No Trace skills. Sorry buddy, nothing salty left for you this morning.
Approaching 7am, I was beginning a slow ascent to the ridge above the basin. I could see a tent pitched at Round Lake as I gained elevation.
Based on the use of Lunch Lake by my fellow campers the night before, I opted to get my water for the day at the small stream flowing over the trail on my way up. It may not be rational but somehow felt more pure.
I soon reached the ridge and said goodbye to this view of the basin and then made my way over and down to the junction for the High Divide Trail.
The trail here clung to the side of the ridge with expansive views of Hoh Lake Peak and neighboring ridges.
A mountain grouse watched me warily as I passed by.
It wasn’t too long before I could see the glaciers of Mount Olympus off in the distance.
As the trail snaked over to the other side of the High Divide, I could peer down into the basin and see more of the lakes that give it its name. I imagined this is where I had been wandering briefly last night. Appleton and South Appleton stood tall on the horizon, and the memory of being at the pass with my mom came to me.
The trail on the north side was rocky and vegetation was sparse.
Then it would flip back to the south side full of scrappy alpine, meadows and more views of Olympus.
About 8:20am, I reached the junction for Bogachiel Peak. Last year I had skipped it due to being socked in but this year it was a go. The map showed I had the option of turning up here or on the other side so I decided to make the loop as it seemed more direct. I soon regretted this choice, however.
Don’t get me wrong, the view was amazing. I could see the trail that heads in the direction of Hoh Lake and Hoh Lake Peak.
As well as the Carrie Glacier, along with Mount Carrie, Mount Michael, Mount Fairchild and more clustered together under the moody morning sky.
But then it became clear that to continue up to Bogachiel Peak, I was on a social trail with little definition. Hands and careful footfall were needed, something I would not normally choose to do with a full pack on.
I did eventually make it and was rewarded with almost 360 views of the basin and surrounding landscape. I can’t say it was that much more splendid than the views from the High Divide trail itself, but stunning all the same.
And much better than last year!
Dropping back down off the summit, I turned onto the loop that met the High Divide Trail again. Here I was welcomed with a well defined and more frequented trail. If I had the choice again, I would skip the “shortcut” and just come up this trail on the east side of Bogachiel next time to summit.
The High Divide Trail (also the Pacific Northwest Trail) continued along the ridge with views in every direction. It was past prime wildflower season but I could still imagine them in my mind. The Hoh River flowed below in the valley.
The ridge flattened out somewhat, allowing the trail to stay on the basin side as it slowly descended as ridges do. That is to say, with plenty of ups and downs.
At 9:30am, I came to where the less traveled trail that runs through the basin intersects the High Divide.
I imagine it is a lovely (and solitary) path but without the views afforded by the ridge walk. Caltopo also says it is shorter from Lunch Lake, maybe this would be a good option if you woke to stormy weather and wanted to reduce your time on a ridge?
There was someone camped up at a site on the ridge but it seemed they were still enjoying a late morning snuggled in their sleeping bags.
It was almost 10am when I reached what I believe was Lake Number 8 and saw the most curious sight. Something bright white was swimming in the middle of the lake!
I watched in fascination as it swam across and back. At first I thought it must be some pale forest mammal but than I realized it must be a human. In the buff.
Then, I noticed someone had dropped their pack on the other side of the trail. Ah, the lake must have harkened for a swim. That was some dedication, it was not a quick jaunt down off the ridge to get to the lake.
Still entertained, I very slowly continued along the trail, looking down at the lake to see if the mystery swimmer was walking back up if only to confirm I had not imagined them. I may have even sat for a minute and had a snack while waiting to see where they popped up. Eventually, I did see someone slowly making their way back up to the High Divide, thankfully in clothing.
More ups and downs were in store for me as I finished the last of the High Divide.
Still making my way around Lake Number 8.
The trail rounded the ridge of Heart Lake Peak and I had my last views of Olympus with her White and Blue Glaciers.
And bright blue bog gentian.
Aptly named Heart Lake shone below and I could see the first of fellow hikers moving at its shores. A few trail runners were also ascending the trail, most likely starting at Sol Duc early this morning.
Before dropping down at the junction onto the Sol Duc River Trail, I sat on a set of rocks and ate an early lunch. This gave me a chance to enjoy the views before heading into the forest.
It is too bad they couldn’t give the prominent peak a better name than Peak 5699, especially since its elevation is 5715 feet?
I reached Heart Lake about 11:30am and found it empty, any campers from the night before had already departed back down towards the trailhead.
As I descended from Heart Lake, I spied out where the campsites were in case I wanted to stay here in the future. That is, I wanted to know if hammocking was possible.
There was a grand site with that looked out over the valley at the tail end (or beginning if you are headed up) with trees that did seem to make that possible. Sweet.
This really is one of my favorite sections of this trail, even if I didn’t get to meet llamas this time. So many layers of green that define what we love about Washington State.
I took a few minutes to check out the sites at Sol Duc Park.
This footbridge seemed to lead to a campsite, definitely could use some love.
I didn’t stop at the campsite at Lower Bridge Creek having stayed there last year and arrived at the bridge over the creek about 12:30pm.
Of course, I had to do a soak and top up on water.
The trail continued in the forest with bridges in varying states of repair. All the campsites along the way were empty, similar to last year where I only saw one campsite with a tent.
My destination for today was Sol Duc River #2 and I made it there close to 3pm. Yes, I know I could just walk out a few miles to the trailhead but why not stay and enjoy another night in the outdoors?
There were a few flat spots close to the trail but I was looking for somewhere to hang my hammock. It turned out to be further back where the terrain drops down to the Sol Duc River.
And when I say drop, I mean quite steeply.
Despite the tricky path down, it was the perfect spot to admire the rush and rhythm of the water for the afternoon.
Reluctantly I returned to my camp and prepared dinner.
Tonight would be some stewed greens with bacon. I noshed on a meat stick while waiting for it to soak.
I had also finished knitting my beanie and as luck would have it, I had a darning needle in my repair kit I could weave in my ends with.
And since I still had yarn, I set to knitting a second one as I relaxed in my hammock for the evening.
My goal for the final day of the loop was to get up early enough to make it to the Sol Duc Hot Springs when they opened in the morning at 8am. I was less then 3 miles from the trailhead so that would not be that hard to do. I had never visited them before and wanted to check them off my bucket list, you can read about them on my next post!
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