Reflection Lakes
With another 16+ miles to do today, we were up and hiking by 5am with headlamps on briefly as we made our way along the trail and road towards Narada Falls. The falls are not directly on the Wonderland, so I walked up the side trail enough to be able to see it. I could hear the water better than I could see it in the predawn hour. Mount Rainier was barely visible in between the trees but as we moved up in elevation towards Reflection Lakes, the low laying clouds made the trail ethereal once again.
Crossing the road and joining with the Lakes Trail as it circumvents the Reflection Lakes area, I arrived at 6am. The day was brightening and with the hopes of seeing Rainier reflected in the lakes, I sat down at a viewing bench and anxiously awaited the sun’s ascent to clear the fog hovering over the water.
I could hear the voices people talking and laughing faintly traveling over the water and figured other hikers were doing the same further on the trail. It wasn’t long into my quiet morning meditation that I was rewarded with the view of the day’s first glow illuminating the Nisqually Glacier and not soon after, the mist floated away from the surface of the lake and Mt. Rainier was able to see her image in the glassy water.
Steve was a short distance away capturing it with his fancier (AKA heavier) camera and when he came up to me he commented that he has driven up to the park many times to try and capture this but the timing had never been right until this moment. He was smiling like a kid in a candy store.
The trail continued around the lake and came out onto the road where I was able to see the source of the voices I had heard earlier. The parking area was full and people were lined up along the viewpoint bent over with faces snuggled up to cameras on tripods. We had to walk on the road as they blocked the sidewalk with their stance and accessory bags, and I was glad there had been a spot on the other side for me to witness the sunrise separate from this commotion.
Steve said it appeared to be a photography class, as an instructor was giving tips on lighting and such. It sounds like this is a popular area anyway, one of the best for capturing the mountain in the reflection of a lake. Good to know for the future.
Louise Lake
The trail weaves its way past Louise Lake and I took the junction to go down and see it. There was not a good view of the mountain from here, but Faraway Rock loomed above and the slopes ringing the lake were a kaleidoscope of green, red, orange, yellow colors accented by the blue sky.
Stevens Creek and Canyon
Back up on the Wonderland trail, I continued for another mile or so as the trail passes a few more viewpoints and crosses below Martha Falls where I had breakfast and then headed down into Stevens Canyon. You can see the road above you as you follow the side of the canyon along Stevens Creek, the trail eroded in some places making for careful footwork as you descend.
In one place, I ended up losing the trail and walking next to the creek bed until I connected back up with it further down. You will find the Maple Creek campsites and the beautiful crossing of Stevens Creek before you finally come out at the Box Canyon picnic area. If you want to short hike off the road on the Stevens Creek Trail to the bridge and small canyon at Stevens Creek, I highly recommend it. The water uniquely cascades over smooth square boulders that look like a giant set of teeth.
Box Canyon
The day was warming up and the Box Canyon parking area was filled with cars coming and going but it had a welcome port-a-potty and garbage can. I checked out the viewpoints and historical markers on the ADA paved trail that takes you to look at the deep narrow cut in rock with the Cowlitz River flowing over a 100 feet below.
Steve caught up with me and we discussed the short climb up to Nickel Creek from here. He was going to take a few minutes at the rest stop, and I headed up to Nickel Creek for lunch telling him I would see him up the hill.
Nickel Creek
After huffing it up the steep trail, I sat down on a large log next to the foot bridge at Nickel Creek and began to “camel up” for the next 6.7 miles to Indian Bar that were supposed to be dry. This was another piece of advice we got from the ranger when we picked up our permits. I have since learned that “dry” is relative to what kind of filter you carry.
To “camel up” means to drink as much water as you can so you don’t have to carry as much to your next destination. With the help of electrolyte powder (Ultima), I drank 2 liters while eating lunch and soaking my feet in the cool water of the creek.
Steve soon joined me and shared how he was using his trail time to make videos for Survivor. Yes, Survivor. Steve has tried out twice but not had any luck, so he hopes that what he is learning this week will help get him a spot on the show. What could be more Survivor than this? On a more serious note, he did share with me a touching selfie video he had filmed telling his kids that he loved them, similar to the one I filmed of myself when hiking into Canada after my Washington section of the PCT. Being able to do things like this makes you appreciate life and what you have.
We were visited by another ranger here, younger and employed by the park, who checked our permit and pointed out the American Dipper (bird) that was diving in and out of the creek bed. The ranger was headed up to Indian Bar as we were and said he would see us up there as he continued on up the trail.
Cowlitz Divide
A few hikers passed us and as Steve and I were putting on our packs to begin our way up towards the Cowlitz Divide, a group of excited day hiking teenagers came noisily by in the same direction we were going. They asked if we were headed towards Indian Bar, and I told them yes, it was that direction in 6+ miles. They said they were just going to hike as far they could get. Watching them continue, I paused long enough to let them get ahead of me so I would not have to hike with their chatter.
It only worked for so long, and I played leapfrog with the rambunctious group on the switchbacks through this forested section (which did actually contain small streams for water) until just past the junction with the Cowlitz Divide Trail that comes out of a trailhead close to the Stevens Canyon entrance to the park off HWY 410.
Here the trail loses its switchbacks and I lost the teens to a meadow with a view of Rainier. Although it looks more gradual on the map, the hike along the divide is filled with both rolling hills and steep ascents, and I passed the ranger taking a break in some trees as I made my way on the rambling trail.
No words I can write will do justice to the last 4 miles into Indian Bar, it is one of the most beautiful places I have been to on a hike. The rugged views on the right of Shriner Peak, Double Peak and the Cowlitz Chimneys are reminiscent of the vast panoramas of the Methow Valley and the expansive green views on the left of Cowlitz Park, with the waterfalls from the Whitman and Ohanapecosh Glaciers, reminded me of the Goat Rocks Wilderness, but with Mt. Rainier looming in the background as an extra bonus.
It literally and figuratively took my breath away. I could have ended my hike right here and been completely content. I spent some time on the high point at 5930 feet just soaking it all in, it was still early and there was no reason to hurry.
Indian Bar and The Dethroning of Summerland
Eventually, I shook off the trance of it all and carried on down into Indian Bar to what would be my favorite campsite on the trail. Indian Bar is magical, with the water flowing down from the glaciers to Wauhaukaupauken Falls that runs through camp, the towering ridge that encircles and shelters, the campsites that climb up from the river bed, and the rustic group shelter with bunks that overlooks it all.
I took the first site closest to the water, set up my tent and went over to check out the privy behind the group shelter that has been reported to have the best view on the trail. It did not disappoint and there was even a roaming deer to keep me company.
When I returned to my site, the ranger did chastise me for leaving my pack unattended (I had not hung my food yet). I apologized and told him all my food was in odorproof Opsaks so I was not worried about immediate critter infestation but I that would be hanging my food properly ASAP. His face turned more forgiving and he acknowledged that most hikers do not use the bags and then cautioned me that they did have some bears that patrol the area looking for food carelessly left unprotected.
I imagined that Steve would arrive long after me, how could he resist the photographer’s dream that I had just come through? I sat down next to the relaxing water just above the falls to soak my feet and waited for his arrival. It was an hour later when he came down the trail, camera never leaving his eye for long. I couldn’t help but ask, “Is your Summerland REALLY better than that?” He could only shake his head in disbelief and mutter, “No.” The rest of the evening consisted of dinner, replenishing water and snapping pictures as we each explored this unbelievable location.
Tomorrow’s Forecast
Steve set up his tent next to mine and we decided it was a good idea to put on the rainflies because there was a 60% chance of rain tonight. We made plans for the next day contingent on what the weather was like when we woke up. It was only 4.4 miles to Summerland where we had reservations for Saturday night and another 10 to the car at Sunrise.
If we woke up to sunny skies, we had all day to make the short hike to camp but if we awoke to a miserable day, we would want to be moving relatively early to make the 14 and a half miles out. After settling into our shelters with dark clouds rolling in, it wasn’t long after sunset that we drifted off to the sound of rain softly beginning to hit our tents.
You can read my tips on increasing your chance of getting a Wonderland Trail permit here. If you would like to be notified when the next day is posted, subscribe here. You can read here to learn more about planning a hike on the Wonderland Trail.
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