I am currently sharing journal entries from my section hiking of the Pacific Crest Trail in Oregon, transferring them from Trailjournals.com which has not been a reliable platform lately. In 2016, I finished the section from the highway below Crater Lake National Park to the city of Ashland. For 2016, you can start here, for Oregon in general this page will get you started.
Snuffy’s 2016 Pacific Crest Trail Journal : Day 5
June 28, 2016
Destination: 1716.2 Callahan’s
Today’s Miles: 29.9
Start Location: 1746.1
Trip Miles: 101.8
For some reason my alarm did not go off this morning, and I was tired enough to sleep past my normal wake-up-with-first-light routine so I am an hour behind today on what could be a very long stretch if I decide to go the distance to Callahan’s, about 30 miles. Last night was breezy and I was glad to see I had picked a spot next to large log, just in case some tree decided to come crashing down. A lot of the trees on this trip seemed just one sneeze away from falling over.
I was up and walking at 6am as the sun warmed up the grasses and rocks on this section of trail. I started with a moderate uphill climb that also warmed me. The trail meanders through fields and forest, like something you would see in a movie about life in the pioneer days. I heard song birds, see deer munching grass and even a flock of “lil ‘ol wild turkey” moving away from me as I make my way toward my first water source today.
Last night was a dry camp so I am looking forward to cold water. I hope. There is supposed to be a water faucet/spigot on the trail by Hyatt Campground but there had been at least one year when it was dry. Crossing my fingers!
I reached the faucet a little after 8am and plopped down for breakfast. I haven’t seen any other hikers yet and wonder if who I will see as I get closer to I-5. I was happy when cold, refreshing water flowed from the spigot, even if the trough it went into was less than appealing. I sat for a few minutes and enjoyed my (2nd) morning meal. I am still having problems with heartburn and low stomach acid, hopefully I will be able to resolve this soon after getting off trail. Maybe tonight. I have in my notes that Callahan’s is open until 10:30pm. Will I make it by then?
My hike continued to increase in the number of road crossings (and road noise) alternating with quiet rambling hills with views to the east, south, or west. One doesn’t necessarily want to see the I-5 corridor, but there is something beautiful about seeing it from above stretching out in its vastness and not just from your car window. I have driven it several times, and now I have walked it.
As the day goes on and increases in heat, so does the insane itching of the multitude of bug bites I have accumulated so far. Mostly on my knees (where the fabric touches my skin when I sit) and at the gap at my wrist where my shirt is buttoned. It’s miserable.
As the miles continue I pass 4 other hikers, all men solo. None of them are too chatty but one asked about whether I stayed on the actual PCT ahead. The map shows an “old pct” variation. I told him I was following PCT signage, so whatever that means. Everyone all looked clean and fresh, so I assumed they were either on their first of second day.
The heat, bug bites, fatigue and heartburn have me also feeling a bit nauseous when I get to a piped spring slightly off trail at 2:30pm, at mile 1727.6 about 12 miles from I-5. I found a shaded spot under a tree with a view of a pond and meadow and the blue skies overhead and decided it was nap time. I filled my water bottles with the icy water coming out of the ground, rinsed my feet, set my alarm for an hour and settled down to enjoy a little relaxation.
I also assessed my food supply. For this trip, I did my best to plan how much food I would need each day rather than fill my food bag and call it good. I ALWAYS have WAY TOO MUCH FOOD. I vowed this time would be different. And it was. Looking at what I had left (minus a few bars I left in the hiker box in Fish Lake) I was down to some half melted chocolate, a few trail mix crumbs, a little nori and one more dinner. And some mustard packets. That was good. Unless I didn’t make it out tonight, then tomorrow I would be one hungry hiker. I guess I needed to make it out tonight. I started thinking about what I would order for dinner. Steak? Salad? Both? I know they offer PCT hikers deals on spaghetti and pancakes at the restaurant at Callahans’s but I planned to treat myself better than that.
As my alarm went off and I reluctantly thought about getting up, a few day hikers came through the spring area. Yep, close enough to I-5 to make it I think.
It was probably closer to 4pm when I was once again heading south and hoping that the “green corridor” reputation of this area would help me make it down in time for a meal. Keeping with same pace of the first part of the day, I shouldn’t have any problem doing it in 5 hours.
Well, I will say it is nothing like what the North Cascades can dish out but it isn’t exactly a walk in the park either, especially when you are between mile 20 and 30 of your day. The views were expansive as I grew closer to the Oregon/California border and Mt. Shasta became a little more prominent in the horizon. But honestly as I knew I was within 4-5 miles of being done all I was wondering was if I was ever going to go DOWN. The ridge was nice and this would make a wonderful day hike but I was ready to be off it by this time. Back in went the headphones, time for Journey’s Great Hits and Third Day’s Make Your Move.
I don’t know what exactly time I crossed out onto old HWY 99 but it was after 8pm. Looking left and then right, I saw the overpass of I-5 ahead. From the map I knew Callahan’s was that direction so I began my road walk on the loose rock on the shoulder. After going under I-5, ahead I saw the PCT marker and kept going. Traffic that passed was all going the other direction.
I had a decision to make here, where you can either continue a mile on the road or get back on the PCT and go another mile or so then take a spur trail down more directly to Callahan’s. I had read about my options last night from Yogi’s Guide. It was getting dark, I detest road walks and I couldn’t imagine getting a hitch at this hour so I swallowed some more pain reliever with the last of my water and took the trail.
My mistake.
The PCT part was fine enough, albeit slightly up hill. But the sign for the spur trail is designed for hikers going north, so I passed it. Then, thinking I had to have gone too far, I turned back and returned to a muddy, tore-up-with-large-truck-tires path and eventually saw the Callahan’s sign pointing down. It looked like an infrequently used logging road you will sometimes see off of a main forest road. Guess this was it.
It went down about 50 feet to a bend where I guess you could continue on the “road” but there was flagging and an impression of a trail in the trees so I took that. I then bushwhacked through that because no one had obviously taken it recently and came to another choice: a wider rocky abandoned road down or another flagging/trail impression back into the woods. I chose the road first and came out on some marshy section along some railroad tracks with more gravel road and buildings covered in graffiti. WHAT??? I thought that couldn’t be right. So I went back up and tried the trail but it simply took me to the same place (albeit more of a bushwhack).
At this point the combination of low blood sugar and late hour had me close to tears. I knew I was SO close. I threw down my pack again and pulled out Yogi’s instructions. Right there in black and white it described the railroad tracks, another steep gravel road and coming out onto HWY 99 (again) by Callahan’s. Good grief, how had I missed that last night? Disgusted with myself for not reading it completely, I went back down and did as told, eventually seeing the glow of the resort sign over the freeway. I knew now I should have just stuck with the road walk, even if my feet had been in anguish the whole way. I was now emotionally exhausted, as well.
I made it inside the lodge at 9:20pm only to find out that although they are open to 10:30, the restaurant closes at 9pm. It wasn’t the front desk’s staff’s fault but I so disappointed. And hungry. He was really nice and got me set up with a shower and told me where to pitch my tent. I opted for laundry tonight because if I was able to get a ride to Medford in the morning, I would want to be clean for my bus ride home. They have a great little place set up on the property for hikers with a bathroom, shower and laundry.
I called a trail angel who was willing to help me, Aubrey, and we set up for her to pick me up in the morning at 7am and take me north in time for the grocery store and bus. I took a shower and put my laundry in, then went out to set up my tent in the dark. There were two other tents set up on the nice lawn they provide but they were probably long asleep at this point. I gave my boyfriend a call to tell him I made it and texted the other folks expecting a possible SPOT beacon letting them know all was well.
Around 11pm, after flicking a tick off my pack and settling in to the noise of waterfall (and I-5 traffic), I drifted off to sleep wondering how I managed to make another 30 mile day. And how I was happy to be done with Oregon.
For now.
June 29, 2016
To cap off Oregon, the next day at Callahan’s I woke up, packed and got ready to be transported to Medford by my trail angel, Aubrey. She picked me up early enough so I could have time to stop at Trader Joe’s and pick up some sustenance for the bus ride back to Portland. Aubrey is super sweet and loves to help hikers in her area, she chatted about her PCT days hikes and love for the trail. I hope she gets out soon for her own big adventure.
I just want to mention that the bus station in Medford is a small time affair and has limited hours. Like basically just when the bus arrives and departs. And don’t be surprised if the doors aren’t open when they say they will be. The guy on shift when I got there was late and looked like he just rolled out of bed.
It had been awhile since I had ridden the Greyhound and I was happy to see not much had changed. We stopped for lunch 10 minutes after I got on at a lovely roadside location that provided lots of options. Provided you were happy with fast food options (a convenience store, Burger King, Subway and Taco Bell).
Thank you, Trader Joe’s. And to top it off, we were delayed a few moments here because a parole officer (bounty hunter?) showed up to claim a passenger who had used his card at the convenience store. Wow, that gal was fast. Unfortunately, so was the passenger who skipped away leaving his stuff on the bus. A last little bit of excitement!
Elizabeth picked me up in Portland and we headed to Cultured Caveman for a meal. I shared details from my hike as we then drove back up to her house and my car so I could finish the trip back home.
This is the end of my Pacific Crest Trail section hiking in the beautiful state of Oregon. If anyone asks me, I will say that I am done with Oregon. However, if you have been paying attention from the beginning of Oregon, you know as a purist that isn’t entirely true.
There are about 20 miles between Timothy Lake (near Mt. Hood) and Ollalie Lake that I had to skip in 2014 due to wild fires. It is nothing but a flat forest walk, someday I may be bored enough to go hike it in and out for the technicality. And from Callaghan’s (Ashland) there are about 30 more miles to reach the Oregon/California border. Because there is no trailhead there, it isn’t reasonable to hike unless you are continuing into California, it is going to wait until I make plans for that. So for now, I say good enough to Oregon.
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