Editor’s note: I seriously thought this trip was from last year, still shaking my head that it was not. But on a good note, I am slowly working through a backlog of posts!
Last year I posted about hiking in the Wenatchee Foothills in 2023 but that was only one part of my weekend adventure. Some friends of mine had posted they were going to be hanging out in the Ancient Lakes area near Quincy, Washington, so I decided it was time to finally visit this part of the state.
Popular for early season backpacking where no permits are needed, I had seen trip reports regularly but never taken the time to drive over to experience it for myself. Upon further examination of the map, it turns out the the Ancient Lakes area is not far from my favorite BBQ place in Rock Island so I made a weekend of it.
It was forecasted to be in the 70s on the eastside, I couldn’t wait for the both the sun and the warmth. After my early hike from Kenzie’s Landing to see the Arrowroot Balsamwood and stopping off to pickup barbeque, I continued my drive southeast from East Wenatchee towards Quincy on SR 28.
Properly called Quincy Lake Wildlife Area Unit, Ancient Lakes is the common name for the desert area surrounding Potholes Coulee, a recessional-cataract canyon even though the “Ancient Lakes” are just a few of the lakes to be found. This is the traditional home of the škwáxčənəxʷ (Moses-Columbia) people, you can learn more about them at Nativeland.ca and the Colville Tribes.
From Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife:
The Quincy Lakes Unit has been shaped over time by lava flows, glacial floodwaters, erosion, and seepage from irrigation water. Visitors to this unit will experience towering 800-foot basalt cliffs, isolated mesas, stair stepped benches, box canyons, and potholes. Several of the potholes are filled with water that has seeped from the irrigation of the Quincy Basin farmlands upslope, adding important diversity to the unit’s fish and wildlife habitat.
Nick Zenter recently did a video talking about the geological history of the area which I enjoyed watching having now been there. There are actually several different sections and lakes so it can be a little confusing or “interesting” depending on your mental attitude.
I did not start where the trailhead is described in the guide description but it is labeled as Quincy Lakes Wildlife Area on GAIA and is south of the Burke Lake West Water Access (47.13550, -119.93062). Once you turn off of SR 28 and White Trail Road (5-NW), it is all gravel roads.
Pulling up to where my friends were car camping, I parked and visited for a short time before heading out on the trail that started from the parking lot. It was already 3pm so a large loop was not in the plan.
First I hiked up on the rim of the coulee with views out to neighboring farmland and eventually down at Dusty Lake. I could see where the trail to Dusty meandered through sagebrush down below.
Then I hiked down the .8 miles to Dusty Lake. The trail was not always straightforward, there were a few sections where three points of contact were necessary.
I am ever fascinated by the pillared basalt walls of the cataract, I can just imagine the volcanic movement so many years ago.
When I got to Dusty, the cool waters were calling so I decided to plop myself down and stick my feet in. I know the water is not good for drinking or swimming due to agricultural runoff but it sure felt refreshing on my toes. The t-shirt weather felt glorious, I was so ready for summer! There was a campfire ring but not really a flat enough spot here, however there were a few further up on the trail that looked fairly established for camping.
There were quite a few people standing over on the saddle between Dusty and the Ancient Lakes basin, a sure sign of backpackers on the other side.
I saw several groups of hikers including a large Boy Scout-ish conga line as I returned to my car. I also passed three travelers on bikes, all pushing them. I am not sure how they manage as there are several spots that require hands and that lovely scree around Dusty. I hope they made it through!
For the night, I car camped at Quincy Lake along with a few other RVers and camper vans. I was worried it might get a bit rowdy but things were mellow overnight. Camping spots were random and socially made, which seems to be the theme in Ancient Lakes.
Dinner was some barbeque on top of a bagged salad mix.
The next morning, I got up early and parked at the lot above Judith Pool (47.15181, -119.92208) for a quick jaunt to check out the falls and basin. The parking lot was empty as you can’t park here overnight and I didn’t see anyone on the trail.
I have to say, my observation is that this trail does not smell well. My first impression from the trailhead was that there are a lot of people going to the bathroom around there. Later, I wondered if it might have been the overnight rain causing the dead vegetation to be more aromatic? I didn’t see cows so that didn’t seem to be it…
Despite the drizzle and grey skies the hike was beautiful and even had some spring flowers like balsamwood and phlox to brighten the morning.
I went as far as the Upper Ancient Lake Falls (about .75 miles in) and a great view of the Ancient Lakes basin. From my perch I could count at least 40 tents and saw several campfires.
All I could think was, where does everyone go to the bathroom? Thank goodness no one is drinking the water (I hope). I was glad that I had not planned to hike in, I would have probably hiked back out with that kind of crowd.
Short but sweet, I now have a general idea of what the Ancient Lakes area is about. I do hope to return again and do some more “backcountry” hiking or even an overnight to some sections that see less people. It sounds like there are lots of trails to explore and other places to camp besides the main basin.
If you plan to visit the area for yourself, here are the hike guide descriptions on Washington Trails Association:
These guides offer directions from Seattle and I-90 and then driving north. If coming from Wenatchee as I did, you will drive about 27 miles southeast from Wenatchee on SR 28 and then turn right (south) onto White Trail Road/U NW (if you get to Quincy you missed it). In about 6 miles, turn right again onto T-NW Road (if you get to WA-281 you missed it). This road will soon wind you through the Quincy Lakes basin area and water access points. Caltopo gives you an idea of the trails you can find there.
If you are thinking of heading over to Ancient Lakes, consider stopping by my favorite barbeque spot: Burch Mountain BBQ. They don’t keep regular hours (mostly catering and pop-ups) but they will be open in the afternoon of April 20th (and have this weekend for the last few years). Their kitchen is located in Rock Island, between Wenatchee and Quincy and following them on Instagram will keep you in the know about when they are (infrequently) open there.
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What a beautiful place!