Up, Down, and Out: Eagle Cap Pt. 4

Up, Down, and Out: Eagle Cap Pt. 4 is the final story of our backpacking trip in Eagle Cap Wilderness of The Wallowas of Oregon in 2016.

The Clouds Clear At Mirror Lake

At around 1 am I woke up and peered out of my tent to see if there was any change in the weather conditions. I couldn’t believe what I saw. It was times like this when I wished I carried a fancier camera.

The skies had miraculously cleared and the most amazing white glow of a moon lit up the sky and the towering Eagle Cap stood in a regal pose of black and white. I couldn’t help but get out of my tent and sit in the night air at the illuminated scene around me. The dark liquid lake shimmered and the surrounding granite blocks was sharply defined in shades of grey with prickly black pine trees providing contrast in the tall mountain’s midnight court.

A few wispy clouds drifted sleepily in the sky. The quiet was palpable as you felt time had stopped to pay homage to the night hours. It was like nature had hit the mute button.

I did hear Elizabeth stir after a bit and so I told her to peak out. She caught a glimpse and then ended up getting out of her tent and making a cup of tea to enjoy the serene moonscape. You just don’t experience tranquil moments like this at home.

I didn’t want to go back to sleep but reluctantly got back into my sleeping bag anxious to think I would get to climb Eagle Cap when the day began. Who cared if I didn’t have an ice pick?

A few hours later I awoke to the sun painting the hills in subtle hints of pink and orange and Eagle Cap sat there beckoning.

I took a few minutes to wonder around the lake and take some pictures that I didn’t get last night because the clouds had rolled in.

Mirror Lake sure earns its name.

Going with Plan A, Elizabeth would wait 3 hours and then go, giving me plenty of time to climb the 2.8 miles to the peak of Eagle Cap and get back down to catch up with her.

I only took day hike supplies (including microspikes) and left my tent set up. I’d pick it up on the way out.

Bound For The Summit Of Eagle Cap

As I made the turn for Horton’s Pass and Eagle Cap, it wasn’t long before snow covered the trail.

The first part had short switchbacks that start you sweating. The views back to Upper Lake, Minam Pass and the Lostine Valley were brightly lit up by the morning sun.

The second switchback up told me that I wasn’t first this morning. It also told me I might be in trouble as there were clearly impressions of hikers wearing full-on crampons. Maybe this was a bit much for me? I hadn’t read that this was too technical of a climb but maybe there was more snow than I thought?

I decided that I would go as far as I felt safe to do and then turn around. I would at least get a nice view. I knew I would be back again with Elizabeth so she could do it so I wasn’t too worried.

The snow was spotty on the switchbacks for about a 1/2 mile or so and then the route was completely obscured. I was roughly following the tracks in front of me as this was my first time here. Not always the best policy but they seemed to be following the direction of the trail on the map.

As I reached the basin below the ridge, I could see the other party in front of me. There were 3 and they were fully prepared with helmets, ice axes and ropes. And what looked like overnight gear.

Hmmm. So far, I didn’t think this was much more than anything I hadn’t done so far this winter and spring. The basin had a good run off and there was no water running underneath the snow to create hazardous snowbridges.

When I caught up to the group, I found out they were also first timers here and were heading up and over to another section via Eagle Cap. They admitted they might not be needing the climbing gear but they weren’t sure what they were going to encounter so had it anyway.

Looking up at the ridge towards the summit, you could see there were several boot paths and glissade marks, all depending what you considered your own level of risk. We guessed the saddle was the one closest to the peak, and the group headed off that direction.

I started to follow after taking another layer off but then stopped to reassess. I pulled out the map and confirmed that the trail actually headed up to a saddle further to my right.

Scanning the ridge I was able to make out a wooden trail sign marking it. Unfortunately, the path to get there from where I was at this point took me across rather steep traverse. I could see tracks but really didn’t want to do it.

So I headed straight up instead because the ridge above me was snow free, sometimes the direct route is the best. I couldn’t tell if I would be able to traverse along the ridge to Eagle Cap but at the very least I would have an amazing view. The snow was melted in places enough here that I could see there were switchbacks. Maybe the trail was here, too?

The climb was steep and I stopped several times to wonder if I should have just followed the other group. This would not be the first time that I have questioned just what I am thinking.

I could see them starting their own steep traverse on the snow field below their saddle and they weren’t going very fast. Even though I was slipping with every step myself, I could see the bare rocks above me and continued on.

On The Ridge And On To The Summit

Reaching the ridge, I looked back at the basin below. I could see the surrounding peaks and valleys and decided I would definitely be back to explore them.

Looking down the crest of the ridgeline toward the Eagle Cap summit, I went a few feet to see if I would be able to continue that way. It looked pretty technical so I went over the ridge just a bit and smiled with delight.

A trail! A bone dry and bare trail running along the BACK side of the ridge. Sweet!

I took off and eventually ended up at the saddle the other group was just starting to reach. I smiled down at the them and waved. One of them made it up while I was standing there and told me I had definitely picked the better route. I told them about how I had seen the trail marker and just headed straight up.

I left them to finish making it up and continued on the switchbacks towards my summit.

There were a few more patches of snow on the trail and I ended up on some scree as I worked around to find the trail up.

The best part of this was that I found a pair of binoculars that someone had left on the trail so I put them in my pack to eventually carry out but figured they would be nice at the top.

On Top Of The World

I made it to the the summit of Eagle Cap around 9:30am and found it to be is a rather large area, so I moved out to where it overlooks Mirror Lake and both the Lostine Valley and Lakes Basin chain.

At 9572ft, this would be my highest elevation this summer so far.

It felt every bit of it.

I can not do justice to the beauty of this area or how much I didn’t want to leave it. I spun around trying to get a glimpse of each of the 8 valleys that radiate out from this peak. The views seem to go on forever. I’m sure I was looking into Idaho, as well.

I pulled out the binoculars I had found and took a peak down at our camp and could see Elizabeth starting to take down her tent. I thought she was looking my way at one point to so I stood and waved but she says that she couldn’t see me. Bummer. I thought my lime green puffy and fuschia windbreaker would stand out but I guess not!

I had a little scavenger friend who was interested in my food (no surprise) and you could tell she was accustomed to being fed. She had no luck with me, however.

I chatted with my admirer as I ate lunch and took picture after picture of the jaw dropping scenery splayed out before me.

It is not hard to believe that the Eagle Cap wilderness area is Oregon’s largest. I said a prayer in thanks for how blessed I am to be able to climb to places like this and sit in awe of it’s majesty.

I waited up there long enough that the group below could arrive and we could take pictures for each other (avoiding selfies). They had kept all their gear because they were not sure at which point they would continue over to Glacier Pass they were aimed at for their day.

Back Down To Horton Pass And Out Via Lostine

I reluctantly began my descent, this time continuing the entire length of the snow free trail and ridge back to Horton Pass, then did a mix of plunge stepping and glissading down.

It was here that I began to run into other hikers coming up for the day, most of whom did not look prepared for snow. I helped them out with how I had gone, but as more hikers came up, I’m sure they would have multiple tracks to follow, including the group I had originally been following.

There were even horses attempting the trail by the time I got down to the bottom (making a postholing mess in the snow as the day warmed up). They had eventually turned around when they realized there was too much snow and seeing them in the background below gave me the feeling of being transported back to the days of the wild west.

I was back to the junction with Mirror Lake by 11:00 and quickly took down my tent. Some folks at the junction had told me the Elizabeth had just left so I was surely going to catch up to her.

The East Fork Lostine trail is 6.6 miles and pretty much runs straight down the valley save but a few switchbacks. You can tell this trail is heavily traveled as the tread was trenched and had shortcuts in many places.

At one point, the trail crosses back over the river as it runs down the glacier carved valley floor and sitting here for a moment on the bridge that spans it, I could stare back up at the summit I was just standing on 2 hours before. I can see how hikers who come in this direction would be awash in the beauty of this area and called to ascend Eagle Cap.

I caught up with Elizabeth after about an hour or so and we made the last 3 miles together.

These miles are very similar to the beginning of our trip, running along the river in a boulder lined bed with sparkly cascades and a deafening roar that spurred us on.

There is even a rest stop about a mile or so from the trailhead that would make a great day hike for kids and turn around point for those who only want a taste of what this trail has to offer.

Our trip ended with the decision that we would be returning to Eagle Cap for our backpacking trip next year and we would dedicate 5 whole days to hike (and two travel days). We would also go in August so there would be less snow and bugs. The fact that Green Trails will have maps out for this area makes us all the more excited. There are several other trailheads on the other sides of the wilderness area for us to choose from, the Lostine trails are a bit crowded for us.

We can’t wait to go back!

For more pictures from Up, Down, and Out: Eagle Cap Pt. 4, check out my Eagle Cap Wilderness page. For the first day of our backpacking trip, start at Getting There is Half the Battle: Eagle Cap Pt. 1.

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