The High Divide And Seven Lakes Basin, Darn It

I have had plans to hike along the High Divide and Seven Lakes Basin loop in some form for some 7 years now and they have always been thwarted in some way: thunderstorms, wildfire smoke, broken shoulder, broken toe, etc. So last year I was not surprised when not only did my car decide it was no longer adventure worthy but the rain rolled in just for the day I would be along the scenic trail.

But I went anyway, darn it! None of this fair weather hiker business. I planned to rent a car but last minute my wonderful sister, Heather, let me use hers since they were in Montana at the time.

Seven Lakes Basin is considered a classic Washington State hike and permits are a hot commodity as part of the Olympic National Park.  It rests on the land of the Quileute people who have lived here for thousands of years, you can find our more information here.   I did not score any permits in the lakes basin itself but settled for two nights on either end. The roughly 19 mile loop uses the High Divide Trail but begins and ends at the Sol Duc trailhead.  The High Divide is also a part of the Pacific Northwest Trail and my current goal is to hike it through the Olympics in pieces.

Having read trip reports on WTA, I knew to get to the trailhead early(ish) and my 9am arrival on a Tuesday meant I had a handful of spots to chose from.  The sun was out so I knew I would have at least one dry day on the trail as I headed up to Deer Lake to enjoy it.

The beginning of this trail is a popular day hike to Sol Duc Falls so there were quite a few people at the bridge.  I didn’t stay for long, thinking I would spend more time on my way out.

 

 

 

 

The first set of campsites were nestled along Canyon Creek as I climbed towards Deer Lake.

 

 

A family of deer were munching at Canyon Creek #3, the largest wildlife I would see on the trip.

 

 

Deer Lake was busy but I had a quiet spot up above the and no one camped close to me.

 

 

 

I wandered back along the creek to see the campsites there and had a glimpse at the meadow now closed for restoration.  The privy located back along the creek is better than digging a hole but it wasn’t the best one I can say I have used.  It is a reality check, though, because you do get to see what it is like to have to store human waste until it can be packed out.

 

 

 

 

Hikers passed up and down along the main trail until about dinner time and then things calmed down.  A ranger checked my permit and gave the usual information.  My second night was at Lower Bridge Creek and she warned me about the poop problem there since there was no privy.  I let her know I knew how to dig a cat hole, feeling pretty confident in my skills.

The rain started over night but luckily was a light drizzle when I woke in the morning. In hopes of later day clearing I dawdled and did not leave until 9am and if you know me you know that is SUPER late.

 

 

Needless to say, it rained for most of my time up on the High Divide but berries, paintbrush and bog gentian kept me happy.

 

 

 

 

 

I noticed the fault upheaval shortly after reaching the ridgeline of the High Divide Trail, it was incredible to see geology in action.

 

 

 

 

Most of my walk looked like this:

 

 

 

Here is what I should have been seeing:

 

 

 

 

 

I did not take time to do Bogachiel Peak (I’ve visited many a socked-in summit, I know what that looks like) or any side trails like Lunch Lake.

 

 

I was rewarded on the other side of Bogachiel, though, as clouds lifted momentarily so I could see down into Morgenroth, No Name and Lake Number 8. There was even a small rainbow!

 

 

 

 

The loop trail dropped off of the High Divide and circled around Heart Lake where I did not see anyone camping.

 

 

 

And the walk into Sol Duc Park was stunning.

 

 

 

I even got to chat with some llamas.

 

 

I arrived at the “upper” Lower Bridge Creek campsite and snagged it as it had trees for my hammock.  It looked like the rain was done as I had blue skies overhead and white puffy clouds.

 

 

 

 

After setting up camp, I checked out Bridge Creek and went to look for the campsite there but after walking back on the side trail a bit I gave up as it looked to go back rather far and I was already wet enough from drenched vegetation.

 

 

 

 

The ranger was right when she said there is a poop problem at Lower Bridge Creek, quite a few mounds of toilet paper close to the campsite and across the Sol Duc River Trail from the campsite, the side trails also had toilet paper and even poop right on the ground.

 

 

 

Now before I get too high and mighty, I will say it is VERY difficult to dig a cat hole at Lower Bridge Creek in an appropriate manner (at least at the upper site).  I spent 30 minutes just trying to find a spot that was not near the campsite and not near a water source, didn’t require trampling on vegetation or not completely root bound.  And then it was another 30 minutes just to dig one deep enough because of the roots. If you wait until you NEED a cathole, odds are it is too late. If catholes aren’t your thing, I would suggest making sure you choose a campsite with a privy. And don’t forget a waste bag so you can pack out your toilet paper, no one likes to camp where you left yours. Learn more about Leave No Trace Principles here.

 

 

Bridge Creek was a lovely spot besides all that but be warned there are also mice.  The rain rolled back in the evening and persisted gently through the night. Thank goodness I had my knitting to keep me busy.

 

 

The morning was grey and wet when I left camp around 7am. Most of the campsites along Sol Duc were occupied but folks were still sleeping.

 

 

 

 

The junction for Appleton Pass is along this section and this is where the Pacific Northwest Trail comes through.  I have hiked up to Appleton Pass from the Elwha on the other side but not down to here.  If I truly want to make that connection, I will have to come back for a day hike up the Sol Duc (much easier than from the other side).  Appleton Pass is worth it but I wasn’t feeling the roughly 2,000 feet of gain today.

 

 

Be sure to look for signs of the Civil Conservation Corp here, too.

 

 

The walk out was uneventful except for being stung between campsite #1 and the junction with Canyon Creek when I stopped to eat some berries.  Luckily I had an ice pack in the car when I arrived at 10:30 to help with the swelling. No fun at all.

 

 

 

I revived my strength at Toga Soup House in Port Angeles on my way home with a delicious cobb salad.  They were justifiably busy so I got it to go.  I decided the veggies and egg made up for the lunch meat, it is more of a deli place.

 

 

Unfortunately they have since closed but on a happy note, I just found out that Yodelin Broth from Leavenworth that I talk about in my eating guide has moved into their old place! I knew they had opened a new location in Port Angeles but didn’t realize that was where.  I can’t wait to try them there!

 

I wrote most of this last year but never shared.  I’m pulling it out of drafts now because I managed to get permits for the loop again this year with a night at Lunch Lake!  The weather was promising to be nice but now it is iffy so I am debating do I hike it again in the rain or find something else to do.  It will be a last minute decision, what would you do?

 

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