I have been reading this week on social media about how despite being at over 125% of our annual snowpack right now, we are also looking at the inevitability of drought conditions. The month of April was the driest it has been in years and they are already advising hikers to get the most out of the early season because wildfires are on their way. All this doom and gloom has me reminiscing on that weekend we backpacked into Stehekin on the Lakeshore Trail during wildfire season and saw two bears and a moose!
Three years ago when wildfires both here and filtering down from Canada, the skies were hazy and made breathing hard. I had just returned from a work party on my adopted section of the Pacific Crest Trail north of Stevens Pass where our last day had thunderstorms echoing on the horizon exactly over where I planned to be backpacking the next week. Just a wee bit of foreshadowing…
A few days later, the Lady of The Lake ferry dropped us off on the shore at Moore Point with the smoke obscured skies adding apprehension to our annual 3 day girlfriend backpacking trip. As we had been coming up the lake to our destination for the night, we had talked about whether we should be going on our trip at all. A new member to our group just let us know she had asthma but wasn’t worried. WTH? We warned her we would be about 8 miles from medical attention and even then remote but she wasn’t deterred.
Moore Point On The Lakeshore Trail
Our original plan had been to hike over Cascade Pass from Marblemount, WA into the remote village of Stehekin in the North Cascades National Park. But as per usual, between navigating the permit process and lack of time for training by busy moms, that 40 mile round trip trek was exchanged for a more luxurious boat ride up Lake Chelan to the campsite at Moore Point and a stroll on the Lakeshore Trail into town for the weekend.
Sure, I had just been there in June to do the whole 17 mile backpack but who doesn’t want another excuse to stay in Stehekin with the besties? I’d live there if I could…
As we walked up from the rocky shore to the grass field of the camp, the contrast from my early summer visit was stark and not just because of the smoky haze. It was abandoned, like a scene from an apocalyptic movie. Except for a couple with their motor boat tied up to the dock on the north side ready to leave at any moment if the zombies come that is. In June, my husband and I had been lucky to score the last available spot tucked in the trees, today we would have our pick of sites.
If you haven’t been on the Lakeshore Trail, it runs along the banks of Lake Chelan from Prince Creek into the remote town Stehekin, WA and is only accessible by foot, boat or plane. With multiple campsites along the way, Moore Point is the second to the last official campsite before town. It is large and spacious with an actual privy house and picnic tables. Fancy…
We settled on a site large enough for our tents and my hammock, then moved again once the ground hornets there let us know they didn’t want company. I didn’t mind, I had a lovely view up lake even with the smoky filter. Soon after we were settled in the couple on the boat abandoned us, adding to our isolation.
It was a bit early for dinner so I decided to hike up a side trail near the campsite, Fish Creek. It can be followed up to a lake and summit but I wasn’t sure I would have time for that. No one wanted to go with me (it was about 90 degrees at this point) so I headed up by myself on a trail that hadn’t seen maintenance in awhile.
Fish Creek And Bear #1
It is always good to keep an eye out for evidence of wildlife, this sign was pretty obvious…I may have began talking more loudly to myself.
I made it up about a mile on the overgrown trail before the wind picked up making me nervous about any possible nearby wildfires and I turned back around. On the way down I took another side trail that seemed to go up to a high point to look down on the lake. It actually went to private property and was probably more of a game trail but it was fun anyway. Especially because on the way down I got to see my second bear of the season (the first also being on the Lakeshore Trail).
More Moore Point And Hazy Wildfire Plumes
Back at camp, I joined the rest of the gals and had dinner, watching the plumes rise from the Wildcat Fire in the Entiat River area. I had checked the forecast the night before that had called for possible rain and I was half hoping it was true. We could definitely use it. The wind had picked up as I had been hiking back, though, but no rain.
Dinner was paleo pesto pizza for me…
As we settled in for the night, I was still hoping it would rain overnight and tamper down some of the smoke. My wish was somewhat granted as we awoke to stormy skies that threatened to bring the rain. We discussed waiting it out nicely tucked in our tents but opted to get moving so as to not have to pack wet tents.
It was a wise choice as the rain was mild and the skies eventually brightened, leaving us with a beautiful day!
Flick Creek And A Moose On The Lakeshore
Our walk into Stehekin was slow and steady and included a stop for snacks at Flick Creek, a boat-in site. There was a family camped there and they arrived soon after on their boat.
From here we continued into Stehekin and ran into our first critter together, a moose!! This was my second time seeing a moose in the North Cascades, the first was on the Seven Passes Loop near Hart’s Pass in the Pasayten. As soon as she saw us, of course, she froze and tried to hide behind some trees. Then, she took off into the woods lickety split. We stood there for awhile trying to decide if we had really seen her at all it happened so fast.
Approaching Stehekin And Bear #2
Closer and closer we wandered towards the town of Stehekin. The sky was clearer than yesterday and I could see McGregor Mountain nestled up the valley.
When we were a little less than 2 hours from Stehekin, where the trail starts to become more populated with cabins, when we came upon our second critter and my second bear for the weekend! This one was a juvenile brown bear who quickly skittered up a tree to check us out. We stopped and waited for the bear to make a move, scanning around us in case there was a mama bear. Luckily no and eventually she descended and headed down the slope towards the water. Wow, we thought the wildfire smoke was going to be our excitement for the trip and instead it was the local fauna!
If you just came for the story about two bears and moose, this is where that excitement ends. If you want to hear about the rest of our fun in Stehekin, carry on. There will be Stehekin Pastry Company goodies and even a snake!
Stehekin Landing And The Garden
Our arrival into town near 12:30pm had us missing the first shuttle but gave us time to visit the Golden West wilderness information center for our camping permits. There was some deliberation involved as our newest recruit (the asthma one) had packed her pack with too many goodies (a six pack of something?) and decided she was already spent. More of a car camper, I think. Anyway, Serra (the one who invited her), took one for the team and said she would stay closer into town with her. So, we all got a permit for Harlequin for our second night and some of us got Tumwater while Serra and her friend got Lakeshore for our third night.
Not wanting to just hang out at Harlequin all day, we opted to wait for the last shuttle up valley. Leaving our packs at the landing, we took a day trip walk up the road to visit the organic garden. It is less than 2 miles and worth the pavement stroll.
Everyone bought some fruit and veggies and admired the dahlias that line the path into the garden itself. The owner, Carl, was his normal barefoot self and a delight to see.
Back To The Landing And A Snake
Heading back towards the landing around 2:45pm, we enjoyed the unfiltered sunshine and teal blue water. And yet again, we were startled by more Stehekin wildlife…
Back at the landing, we occupied some colorful chairs and waited for the 5pm shuttle up the valley. It wasn’t quite glamping, what do you call this version of backpacking? Slackpacking? Whatever it was, it was a relaxing time with some pretty amazing women!
Rainbow Falls And Harlequin Campground
Gathering our packs, we hopped the shuttle and rode to the Rainbow Falls stop which is past the bakery but about a mile and a half before the Harlequin campground. We stayed here an hour or so for the short hike to the falls and dinner.
The sasquatch sized picnic table at the falls, along with a great set of vault toilets, made for a convenient dinner location. For most of us, meals are a family style affair. Someone plans the meals (usually Anne who is amazing at it) and folks chip in with money and carrying it all in. I typically just bring my own rather than make it harder for Anne to figure out all I don’t eat.
I enjoyed some deconstructed paleo sushi roll…
After dinner, we walked the road and crossed the bridge over to Harlequin. The clouds had rolled in a bit and McGregor was obscured.
The campsites are huge here, mostly designed for car campers who ride the boat up with a lot of camping equipment and then rent a vehicle or ATV to haul it all up. I found a nice spot close to the river for my hammock around 8pm.
The next morning as everyone one else was sleeping in, I got up and did some exploring over off the forest road between the campground and the national park maintenance compound. Gary and I had found it in June and I wanted to see if there was any more interesting things to discover. There are some smushed forestry trucks and old milling equipment.
High Bridge To Tumwater And Agnes Gorge
Around 8am we walked back over the bridge to catch the shuttle up to High Bridge while Serra and her friend took one back into town. The Pacific Crest Trail that connects near High Bridge was currently being rerouted because of the wildfires.
Getting off the shuttle at High Bridge, we walked the short distance up the road to the Tumwater campsite, set up camp briefly, dropped most of our gear into the bear box and walked back down the road to take the Agnes Gorge Trail for a day hike.
There is a viewpoint for the main waterfall but it is not friendly to those with a fear of heights or ledges so some stopped here for a few minutes while one of us made their way to the end of the trail.
Here we are all together!
This is me enjoying some of the broccoli I picked up at the garden…
Relaxing At Tumwater, A Troll And Dinner Bridge
Back at Tumwater, we settled in and spent a relaxing afternoon by the river.
For dinner, we packed up what we needed and headed down the road a bit to find a spot away from camp. This has been our M.O. for awhile now, especially in bear country. The less you cook at camp, the less likely you are to attract a bear. Even with a bear box, no one wants a late night marauder. Crossing the bridge, we decided this would actually make a decent spot so we parked ourselves along the edge with a view of the river flowing underneath.
I had pad thai…
On the way back, we took a detour to Howard Lake. Looking down the valley, it was clear that the smoke was moving in from the wildfire burning in the Entiat once again.
Buckner Orchard And The Stehekin Pastry Company
The next morning, we rose in time to meet the first shuttle at High Bridge to take us back into Stehekin. There was even enough time for more river meditation…
On the way back, we had the bus drop us off again at Rainbow Falls but this time we walked back into town with a stop at Buckner Orchard and the bakery. The smoke was continuing to fill the valley as we walked around the homestead property.
Look at all those goodies!
It was well into 11 o’clock so I had a salad and fudgy gluten free brownie.
Saying Goodbye To Stehekin
Back on the landing, reunited with Serra and her friend and waiting for the ferry that leaves around 2, I nibbled on some blueberries from the garden and savored the flavor of summer and moments of our weekend.
Although I never like to leave Stehekin, with the haze moving in it was clearly time to head to clearer skies. I was appreciative not only for our time to together but for the fact it was not spent entirely in smoke. I knew I would be back once again, maybe even in a different time of year when the chance of wildfires is gone.
Have you had any hazy backpacking trips the last few years as summer seems to be drier and drier? Have you run into any exciting wildlife on the Lakeshore Trail?
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