When I left you in Spring Break Road Trip Day 2,Part 1: Angel of Zion and More Weeping, we were leaving Zion National Park an driving towards Bryce National Park. We drove out of Las Vegas about 24 hours ago and our goal is to hit as many fun things as we can before our reservations for Havasupai Falls on Thursday. This morning I did the touristy thing at Zion and hiked Angel’s Landing, now we are hoping to do the same at Bryce before heading south towards Arizona.
I have to admit I was a little worried as we covered the 70 miles to Bryce. The sheer number of people in Zion when we left had me imaging we would arrive and I would want nothing more than to turn around than fight a crowd of people. We also talked about how The Wave in Paria was not going to fit into our schedule this trip, we would not be able to vie for walk up permits and still make it to Hualapai Hilltop above Supai Wednesday night, as was our plan. Oh well, the Fire Wave had been pretty amazing and would have to do. Sometimes road trips are all about being flexible.
We traveled SR9 to Mt. Carmel, up 89, turned on 12 towards Bryce Canyon City and drove up to the park entrance by 2pm. I was happy to see only 2 cars in line in front of us, I took it as a good sign. We flashed our annual park pass and headed over to the visitor’s center to scout out a hike we had time to do. The plan was to keep it under 5 miles so we could be on the road by dinner.
I got my passport stamp and checked the wall map, deciding that something in the main amphitheater would mean less driving. I joked when we walked in, pointing at a sign in front that said the Navajo-Queens Loop was THE hike to do, that obviously we wouldn’t want to do THAT one. However when consulting the map, it was the only trail that really offered a long enough to be worth it yet short enough route for what we had time to do. Well, it said to do it clockwise so I compromised by choosing to go counterclockwise. A stop at the bathroom and a refill of the water bottles and we were off again.
We drove over to the Sunset Point parking lot, only to get in line with a lot of other cars all circling like vultures to jump in on a parking space if it opened up. This included full size RVs, as well. Ugh. I even thought about getting in line to make a second pass and was stuck waiting for someone in the incoming traffic to let me back in when the woman behind me had the gall to HONK at me like I needed to get out of HER way. I looked at Denise and said there was no way I was going to do this. So, we pulled out of the parking lot and went in search of somewhere close by to park and walk back to the trail head. I turned towards the visitor’s center to the next road for the Bryce Canyon Lodge and found a small parking lot adjacent to the Sunset Point lot. Nothing said we couldn’t park there, so we did and took a short trail over to the rim. Shhhh, don’t tell anyone.
As we approached the rim, I couldn’t help but be in awe of the expansive pink, orange and white hoodoo filled canyon. There is simply nothing that I have seen before that compares.
The crowds were similar to what I have seen at the Grand Canyon, that sampling of traveling humans from all over the world coming to marvel at God’s creation. To say I feel in love is an understatement, what a gift to be filled with appreciation for such a wonder. I just wanted to stand there and soak it in.
I was looking for the Wall Street Trail to start our loop (thinking about the map I had seen briefly), so we walked past Sunset Point towards Inspiration Point on the rim but eventually figured out it had to be connected to where the Navajo Loop Trail descends. The view from this side, though, let us look down into the tall, thin hoodoos, fins and windows tightly nestled in this part of the canyon. The snow on the walls beyond added elegance to the landscape. It was surprising to see that the rim trail did not have railings completely around its circumference, there were places were it simply dropped down into the canyon. Plenty of loose rock and one wrong step you’d be sliding down rather quickly.
We made our way back over to Sunset and headed down the Navajo Loop Trail. It starts out with a few wide switchbacks that take you past the junction for Wall Street Trail (closed due to winter damage, unfortunately) and past Thor’s Hammer.
The views from here are wide and take in a good portion of the main amphitheater. I could tell a lot of folks simply walk down to this point and stop, there is plenty of room for standing and admiring the panoramic vista.
Continuing on, we hit descended another set of switchbacks easing the descent into the canyon below. I loved seeing all the families, from little kids to grandparents out enjoying the trail together. Even if I had to share it with all of them. I love all the different languages, too! What a national treasure.
The first feature we came to was Two Bridges, a couple of elevated rock structures in a small canyon along the trail. Not an overwhelming sight and the park asks you to stay back to protect them. We didn’t stay long.
Shortly after here, we came to the junction with the Peekaboo Loop and turned left for Queens and the canyon floor. The trail is mostly level here and the sunset colored of the canyon walls were in contrast with the green pines and milky blue sky above.
Even before we reached the short junction for the Queens trail, we were playing a game of giving names to the hoodoos shaped like familiar objects. It is incredible how time, water and weather have eroded the sediment from the ancient lakes that once were here into these beautiful designs. I couldn’t stop taking pictures as I wanted to capture just a little of the awe I was experiencing. I have to say, Zion was cool but Bryce stole the show.
After paying homage to the Queen, we slow made our way back up out of the canyon towards Sunrise Point. Her majesty was regal in her court but I think we rather preferred to say hi to Groot as he overlooked the trail. Okay, not a tree but you can’t deny they could be twins. Maybe Groodoo?
We also passed a few places on the way up that asked folks to stay on the trail and off boot paths being worn in the rock, including one a young woman stepped down from telling us that the view was great from up there. I’m sure it is but there is a reason the sign says to stay off there, I thought. Rock is normally a durable source, but not here. We humans don’t need to help the erosion along anymore than we already do.
Once back on top, we completed the loop on the Rim Trail and back to our car. I hated to leave. I told myself I will definitely be back and mostly like for more than a few days. Backpacking, I hope! We were back to the car about 4:30pm and because neither one of us was hungry at the moment, we opted to get back on the road and head back down to HWY 89.
Our goal for tonight was the Coral Pink Sand Dunes close to Kanab before you enter Arizona. Denise had seen there was some free camping on the road the to state park and we should be able to get there by 7pm or so. We didn’t want to set up camp in the dark again, especially because I would be attempting to use the tarp I had fortuitously packed in my bag in the event I needed it over my hammock. My hammock that was no more. Let’s just say I have only ever used a tarp to hang over my hammock, I don’t count the many times I have hung a blue tarp during car camping. Not quite the same thing. But more of that later…
In about 30 minutes, we pulled into a rest stop to use the facilities and cook up dinner. I had brought our dehydrated meals and Denise had her Jetboil, so we took a break to eat and then get ready for bed (changed clothes and brush our teeth). When you boondock camp, you can’t guarantee there will be a good place to do those things when you do and with our luck so far I was not counting on it. I had some of my Nightshade Free Marinara and Denise opted for the Sneaky Turkey Stroganoff. Dessert was Olive Oil an Sea Salt Dates.
After calling our loved ones because we had reception and getting back on the road, we drove past the Mt. Caramel junction and in 5 miles turned right onto the road for the Coral Pink Sand Dunes. As we made our way down this two lane paved road, we kept our eye out for pullouts that might offer us a place to stop for the night. the directions we had said the state park was 12 miles in but there were spots in the 3 miles before you get there. The sand dunes are managed by the state and BLM, in their respective areas. We would be looking for the BLM land, or the larger outer area.
Around 7pm, we came first to a large ORV area on the left and a rutted pullout area/side road on the right. Not really wanting to set up that close to the off road fun, and still some daylight left, we continued on down the road until we came to the day use area for the state park. Although it was tempting to park here, we turned around and drove slowly back the way we had come to see if anything made itself apparent.
Nothing looked welcoming, so we opted to pull up the side road we had seen and find a place to park. This road had an overwhelming resemblance to the road we had braved to camp up last night, including a bold yellow cattle guard. We only made it up about 100ft when the ruts in the road became frozen waves of mud with white caps and I called it. I could almost hear the rental car bless me. There was a pullout, thankfully, and we parked the car with just moments of light left in the day. It was too dark for pictures tonight, I’ll show you our surroundings tomorrow when the sun comes back up…
Setting up camp happened pretty much the same as the night before, only this time I had to find a level piece of ground to pitch a tarp. Mind you, I have never actually pitched a tarp before. I’ve only seen videos and get the general idea. How hard can it be? With the same luck (or Pacific Northwest mentality) that had me decide to pack a tarp, I had also opted to bring poles. Now mind you, I had already proven I could sleep out with nothing but my sleeping bag and makeshift ground cloth. But why not use this opportunity to practice a new skill? Could it be that much harder in the dark on a sun baked mud road?
With a little bit of trial and error, I did manage to get the tarp set up in a basic A-frame style and lay my damaged hammock out to keep my sleeping bag off the ground. The temps were again quite cool as I finished my set up with my headlamp on, so I tossed my down quilt into the sleep system, as well. Tomorrow morning will find me glad I took the effort to set up the tarp and add the quilt..,
The same large moon hovered overhead as the night before and with the possibility of night riding on the dunes next door, it was ear plugs and an eye mask to round out my preparations. Not ideal but you can’t complain too much when you are winging your accommodations on the fly and going the cheap adventurous route.
The only thing I hoped as I drifted off to sleep and had visions of what tomorrow would bring was that hopefully the deer tracks embedded in the floor of my living quarters did not mean a crucial weight bearing hiking pole being dragged off in the middle of the night by a salt craving marauder. But with my luck so far, anything was possible.
Ahead in Day 3: an early morning hike on the sand dunes and Moquith Mountains, Mormon tithing history, roadside showers in Marble Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, dodging elk and wild cows and another night of cowboy camping on the edge of a canyon. Are we having fun yet or what?
Click here for more information and pictures of our time in Bryce National Park.
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