Snuffy’s 2014 Pacific Crest Trail Journal-Oregon Wrap Up

Here are the last few journal entries for the Oregon PCT in 2014, finally! It is always interesting to go back and look at some of my observations and goals. Which ones I kept, which ones I am still working on and which are no longer a priority. Growth is a good thing…

September 2

Can’t believe another summer has flown by, I’m already back to work today. And I’m already planning my next adventures. After leaving the PCT at Willamette Pass, I spent the day with Elizabeth in Portland then headed home for a few days of rest. My feet and knees continue to be okay with the time I am allowing in between hikes to give them a break. I read on a journal entry of Lon Cooper’s (Halfmile) shortly after my return from Oregon that even he had camped at Brahma Lake that same night that the tent city had gone up. He didn’t mention the crowds, so I’m not sure if he was in the same vicinity or if the crowds thing is just what the herd is used to.

On the 18th of August, I decided to cross a few more hikes off my summer list, including my first backpacking hike in the Olympics. You will see some pictures from Colonel Bob Peak near Lake Quinalt, this was a short but steep hike straight up to a peak that used to have a forest fire lookout. I chose this hike because my grandfather was a “Colonel Bob” in the US Army and it seemed like a fun one to start with. I didn’t start out on the trail until 3pm because it took me awhile to get over to Hwy 101 N, but there were 360 degree views of the Pacific Ocean, Lake Quinalt and Mt. Olympus. I only saw one other group, a set of dayhikers on their way out. A few things I learned about hiking in the Olympics in the summer are: #1 It is like hiking in a sauna, #2 The spider webs are not reserved for the early morning first person on the trail, and #3 It really does have the highest concentration of cougars in the state. Luckily, the cougar crossed in front of me on the forest road while I was driving out and not while I was on the trail!

After spending a weekend by the pool in Birch Bay, WA, I headed over to Eastern Washington for two more planned hikes and two side attractions. I headed to Lake Lenore Caves, stopping at the Wild Horse Monument on the way. I have driven past here a multitude of times over the years but never stopped. It is a mini hike up a sharp embankment to a metal sculpture overlooking the Columbia River as you head towards Spokane, WA. It gives you a wide view of the river as it cuts the state and a windy break from the heat of the dry canyon. Lake Lenore is north of Ephrata and Soap Lake and the caves are actually shelters in the rock walls overlooking the lake. It was a great stop for lunch and reminded me of hiking in Arizona in some of the canyons that the native people had used as shelter.

After that, I headed over to Palouse Falls State Park, whose waterfall was named the official state waterfall this spring. Having attended a university in the this part of the state, I am familiar with the two lane highways that lead to this beauty hidden in the southeast corner of the state but had never visited the park. After a few hours of golden wheat fields and tiny farming towns, you come to this rush of water over the canyon and you can only stand and be awed. I timed it to arrive in the afternoon so I could see the sun go down. Even more amazing than the waterfall itself, you can hike back behind to where the river comes in to the canyon behind the waterfall. It was like a secret hiding place with pools and mini waterfalls and the ability to hike down to where the waterfall goes over the edge of the canyon. Not a place for those afraid of heights!

At the end of this day I wanted a shower, so I stopped at the Lyon’s Ferry KOA where I slept next to a rather chatty group. Let’s just say, I now know more than I want to know about the lives of pilot car drivers. On the plus side, it had the most cushy green grass for setting up my tent. AND, since it was car camping, I had my lovely down pillow. Happiness.

On my way back from Eastern Washington, after a detour through Walla Walla, I stopped at another place I have passed on many occasion, The Gingko Petrified Forest, in Vantage. On a day with a temperature of over 90 degrees, this one hour jaunt at desert hiking confirmed that I will not do well in the heat. And I only had a day pack on! This is a short interpretive trail with a chance to look at petrified trees coming out of the ground. Not the most exciting, unless you count keeping your eye out for rattlesnakes.

That lead me into the weekend, and I headed up to Salmon La Sac (off I-90) to get on the Waptus River Trail which heads towards Waptus Lake (PCT mile 2440 or so) where the boyfriend and his son had headed in earlier in the day to camp. Since I didn’t get on the trail until 5pm, I came short of meeting them at the lake, and stopped at a campsite about 2 miles before a river ford I knew was coming when I ran out of daylight. (I’ll mention here, since I only had two days’ worth of food, I had almost tacked my down pillow onto the top of my pack when I left my car. Almost.)

As I settled down for the evening (and shortly after my headlamp battery died), I realized that even though I love what I am doing, there is still a certain amount of “chasing fears” involved. My heart still races a little bit when I hear noises around me in the night, but I don’t let it keep me from doing what I love. Being a person who’s not afraid to sleep in the woods by herself. Hike by herself. Test herself.

The next morning, I joined them at camp and then we labored up to Spade Lake, about 3 miles (the trail junction crosses the PCT .2 miles from Waptus Lake). Although the destination was completely worth it, the vertical trail protects itself with a barricade of blowdowns and rock clinging tread. Plus, add a fourteen year old teenager with a 30lb pack asking, “Are we there yet?” every 30 minutes and you can see why I say “labored”.

This was my first backpacking trip with the both of them and although our styles may differ, we had a great time. We found a spot to camp on a rock outcropping at the lake and spent the rest of the day fishing and exploring the faint trails around the lake. I left them there early the next day and hiked out due to family obligations on Saturday. I was surprised that I only saw but a few hikers on my way out, seeing as it was the Friday of Labor Day weekend and Waptus is a great place to base camp. I always appreciate being able to hike during the week in the summer, so I don’t have to fight crowds at popular locations.

I finished out the weekend with yard work, laundry, my nephew Charlie’s 1st birthday party and Guardians of The Galaxy with the family. And I didn’t sit in Labor Day traffic for even one minute. Oh, and my sister had twins!

Yep, I am back to the grind, earning money again to pay for next summer’s experiences. I should have about one more entry for this year; a few more observations, new things I tried while hiking that worked, and what didn’t, and what I might have in store for next year’s trails. I am enjoying reading other hikers journals as the wrap up their thru hikes. I love seeing them post about Washington and its awe and beauty. And when they post about thunderstorms and being wet and cold, it makes me an itty, bitty bit glad I’m right where I am.

October 3rd

This last week I attended a talk by Jennifer Pharr Davis, who holds the supported FKT for the AT. I loved what she said about how the trail gives you a sense of beauty that has nothing to do with what we are told by society. It is a beauty based on strength, courage, endurance, self-reliance, and a million other things other than your superficial outer appearance. It reminded me that no matter what the world tells us we are supposed to be, it is what we give ourselves on the trail that really matters. And what the trail gives us.

Here it is October and it is a world of difference from how I felt physically this same time last year. None of the pain I was experiencing on a daily basis and soreness only occurs after miles on the trail. I have been able to continue to hike on a weekly basis, and I seem to feel better as long as I keep moving. I think breaking things up into smaller hikes really helped with healing in between. I only lost 3 toenails this year (all minor players), an improvement over last year.

I can tell that although the Altra’s are super comfortable, I will have to move to men’s shoes because the pinkies rub on the outside when in very hot conditions, like the sandy slopes of Mt. Hood.The dryness of Oregon changed a few habits from last year’s hikes. No pee rag, I had no water to waste at times. I used nature as much as possible. I carried more water, and realized how spoiled we are here in Washington with how often water shows up along the trail. There was only one time in Washington that I remember having to resort to a water source I found questionable. Oregon? Well, there were times I was actually worried about water and really not liking my choices. There were times I really wished I had my Sweetwater.

The coleslaws and mustard packets were some of my favorite additions this year, as well as Kalamata olives. Near the end of the summer I began to experiment with using the small plastic bowl (with lid) for meals. The freezer bags seem like such a waste of plastic when I am just adding water. Plus, eating out of the bag is awkward. It was much nicer to eat out of the bowl. However, regular sandwich bags don’t last long in the pack before dehydrated foods start making small holes. I’ll have to try some different combinations containers. Dehydrated plantains need to be ground pretty fine, they do not rehydrate as well as sweet potatoes. The homemade goop I made with coconut cream and almond butter was delish. The tapioca chia seed crackers I made were perfect with pepperoni and cheese. Next year I will try some coconut cream sauces, like Alfredo.

I decided it was time to wash my sleeping bag and tent. I picked up some Nikiwax and washed them in my kitchen sink. Just like my pack last year, I can’t believe how much dirt came off! I also added some new waterproofing to my rainfly and the bottom sides of my tent. My sleeping bag dried well in the dryer with no heat and a tennis ball, rotated with lying out into between cycles to even out the down.

I’ve set my sights on finishing Oregon next year, doing a loop that includes both the PCT and Oregon Skyline. Of course, I will do it in July and hopefully be done before the herd hits. I’d like to do the Wonderland Trail around Mt. Rainer and some more of the Olympics. Maybe the Pacific Northwest Trail from Port Townsend and Cape Alava? I have several friends who would like to hike in the Enchantments, so that is also an option. I am also thinking it would be fun to do week long sections of the PCT but do the side trails along way, exploring side lakes and peaks. Who knows?

My goal this winter is to try and get out more, even when the weather is poor. I’ll keep up with exercises that strengthen my knees and feet. The older I get, I’m finding that Kegels are more and more important (The gals will know what I mean). I started attending a few hiking Meetups, they provide motivation and commitment to get me outside when I find myself leaning towards just sleeping in. It’s also good practice at hiking with others, especially after learning how to hike by myself.

This sport needs balance, not much different than life itself. There is a beauty in going it on your own, and a beauty in sharing it with others. The joy from a friend being bitten by the hiking “bug” is an amazing feeling. HYOH is a wonderful thing, but being able to walk in junction with others has a certain grace all its own. I go to the woods to commune with nature and grow closer to God, and seclusion helps makes that happen. But I also see and feel Him when I am with others in the wilderness; there is a fellowship in it. It is both solitude and community that draw us onto the trail…

My Oregon PCT journey continued in 2015, you can read more about it on Trail Journals for now until I move those stories here, possible later this year!

To start at the beginning, head over to Snuffy’s 2014 Pacific Crest Trail Journal-Oregon Day 1

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