Miles: the Entiat River Trail itself is 15.25 miles long
Elevation Gain/Highest: 2690ft/5760ft
Map: Green Trails Lucerne No 114, Holden No 113 (Ice Lakes), my GAIA
Favorite Eats After Hike: Gustav’s, Yodelin’s Broth Company, South, Dan’s Food Market, or just Pack A Cooler. You can learn more about these places in my Must Hike Must Eat Eating Out Guide.
Find out current conditions and as always, practice Leave No Trace. Pretty please.
Hike Details:
The Entiat River Trail is a rambling path through the end of the Entiat Valley ending at its glacial namesake and the base of Seven Fingered Jack and Mount Fernow. Ravaged by fires over the years, most of it is exposed, dry and dusty. But life is returning and the open views are spectacular of the surrounding peaks. The trail also offers a route into the stunning alpine shorelines of Myrtle, Larch and Ice Lakes if you are willing to climb and navigate through overgrown and fire diminished trails. I have written up a detailed guide description for this trail here.
Below are just a few of the trips I have taken into the area and plan to make a yearly voyage to explore even more!
My hikes:
9/5/2020, 44 miles RT, 4140ft/7200ft
Hmmm, where should we go for Labor Day Weekend where there won’t be a ton of people?
Hmmm, the temperatures in the Entiat are supposed to be close to 100 degrees, so I said let’s go hike the Entiat River Trail! We never see anyone there, who else would do that to themselves?
There were four other cars in the parking lot when we arrived. Two of them belonged to a family group of 9 who were surely heading to Myrtle Lake for fishing. We hiked in around 6:30pm and soon noticed a plume of smoke rising above Myrtle Lake on the way that looked fairly mundane, I was not sure how much to worry when you are already walking through a burned out forest. Anthem Creek had water and the rails had been placed since we were here last year. I’ve seen someone mention a campsite here but pretty much there is just a flat spot at the end of bridge next to the trail so not really. The junction for Myrtle Lake was at 3.6 and made a nice snack and water break.
We passed the new Glacier Peak Wilderness sign at 4.2 miles, well before it was indicated on the map. It was another half mile to the junction with the Larch Lakes Trail (horseshoe nailed to tree) before losing daylight and calling it. There was a flat, open spot at the junction before it dropped down to the cobblestone river crossing and we set up tent there. A few deer circled around during the night but otherwise it was a calm night. Dinner had been eaten in the car so it was pretty much off to sleep after filling water bottles.
Up and hiking by 6:30am to beat the heat, there were a few stream crossings along the way including one with a suspended log crossing. We came to a Y close to the Snowybrushy junction at 6.2 miles and accidentally went left into the meadows. Oops. We didn’t explore long but there was an interesting rain gauge structure back in the trees only captured in a photo we saw when we got home.
We made our way back up from the meadows and took the right fork and the actual Snowbrushy Trail junction appeared shortly on the right marked by a cairn. The sun was still behind the ridges above us but they were beginning to light up with the daylight. We observed the different sections of charred forest: some pines were ebony spikes, some bleached grey and others still covered with curly bristled limbs. A few verdant pockets existed among the deadwood reminding us the forest does live on. Further on the valley widened and few trees still standing allowed us to see out at both the Ice Creek Valley and Entiat Valley with the Spectacles, Maude and Tinpan rising toward the skies.
As we approached the Ice Creek Trail junction the woods filled in with more green understory and there was a couple camping next to a small stream. They would be the only people would see until tomorrow when we returned here. Trail 1432 (to Borealis and possibly Lucerne) was at a little past 8 miles and the sign for the Ice Creek junction stood at 8.2 miles and 4320ft up from the trailhead. We stopped for a rest here and by coincidence I discovered a pit toilet was being installed behind the tall boulders up slope for the campsites just below at the river crossing. It was about 8:20am at this point and the day was warming up despite no direct sun yet. It was going to be a hot one!
From here, we had about 5 more miles to go. The trail ran closer to the Entiat here as it twisted and turned creating a narrow green corridor among the scarred landscape. Just past 9 miles there was another stream crossing that was gone the next day when we walked out. At 11 miles the trail began a slow turn into the glacier drainage and towards the Entiat Meadows. The first campsite in the meadows was a quarter mile further, tucked in the trees on the left. This was probably the best one with the closest water source.
The valley narrowed again at 12.4 miles in and the Entiat rolled through a canyon with the most intact forest (complete with pine needles carpeting the tread) of the entire length of the trail. A small waterfall cascaded and teased with its melodic churning before we were passed through again in the amber fields of the meadow. We spotted another campsite tucked back in the woods (12.7 miles), most likely a horse camp based on its size. It was too far from the Entiat to be a good water source but there was a small stream across the trail before it.
The landscape alternated like this for awhile; forest, meadow, forest, meadow, until we arrived at the junction of Cool Creek below Buckskin Mountain at 13.4 miles and 5060ft around 11am. We looked around for a few minutes to see if there was any obvious campsite but nothing stood out. Hindsight said we should have tried harder but the idea of finding a campsite closer to the trail’s end called to us despite it already feeling like a very long day. So, we pressed on.
A few more alternating forest-meadows with a diminishing trail and eventually we reached a burn area with so many logs down and scorched soil that we were soon on our own. Maneuvering around a huge log pile-up at 14.4 miles, the trail was nowhere in sight. The map showed it originally stayed close to a creek on our left that ran between us and the actual Entiat so we opted to traverse another pile of logs over the creek up onto a small rib that offered less deadfall in order to continue.
The rib leveled out into a boulder field at 14.8 miles and we climbed up it to look around. Scanning what was ahead, it was nothing but a sea of rock with dark cliff walls mottled with small patches of remaining snow rising overhead. It was hot and I was exhausted. I had no desire to continue and there was no decent campsite-looking-spot around save for a flattened piece of grass on the slope to our right that I’m sure a herd of deer or elk would want back sometime in the middle of the night. Looking over, I noticed a patch of trees on the other side of the stream and I made my way over to get out of the sun.
Sitting here for awhile, we debated our options as we rested. I may have cried a little I was so miserable with the heat and had developed two good sized blisters, one on my right heel and one on my left toe. And I rarely get blisters but the dry powdery silt of the trail is hard to keep out of shoes even with gaiters. It was going to be time for band-aids and duct tape.
So, we could keep going further and see if there was a campsite or head back down to the meadows and save ourselves some time in the morning hiking out. Neither one of us wanted to have to retrace our steps in the early morning hours and add to what was sure to be another long day if we ventured up to Ice Lakes. Gary got up and continued up the slope, discovering a faded path in the grass and when I got up to use the “facilities” I noticed that the actual trail was right there next to us, deeply rutted and encroached with brush.
I really did want to see how far the trail went, so we dropped most of our things and took the path Gary had found to the terminal moraine of the Entiat Glacier. The “trail” continued parallel just up on the right hand slope until we reached about 15.4 miles in and then it was nothing but a debris field. Without maintenance, the trail has been mostly been taken back but you can still see its faint impression in the meadowed slope. A few deep trenches remain and there are spots where you have to weave through trees whose branches guard the trail now. There was plenty of rock hopping to stay off the returning vegetation.
I didn’t have it in me but Gary did continue and scrambled up the moraine which offered him a view down into a small tarn and back at the valley. A waterfall cascaded down on the right from Fernow and the outlet from the upper Ice Lake showered over the ridge on my left next to the remains of the Entiat Glacier. It was an impressive sight and I can now say I’m glad we persevered to get here. There were a few flat spots down in the middle along the way where tarns and meadow mud has evaporated but no established campsites.
Just before 4pm we began our decent back down, following the trail we had discovered once we were up here. There were plenty of more trees to navigate but pretty much staying close to the creek got us back to where we had traversed to the rib earlier. We were soon back down at the junction with Cool Creek and in search of a flat spot for the night. Both down to the Entiat and up towards Buckskin was solid meadow but we found a spot in the trees just big enough for our tent that would leave the smallest impression. We had dinner and settled in for the night having the the whole place all to ourselves but another salt-loving deer. I made sure to pee on rocks!
We awoke and had breakfast to a gorgeous tangerine sunrise on Maude and Seven Fingered Jack. Hiking back out by 6am, we spent the morning in awe of all the animal prints highlighted in the dry, dusty trail. Lions, and deer and bears, Oh My! There were no other tracks but our own until the first campsite at the edge of the meadows coming in where a tent was pitched for the night. We could also smell something dead off to our right, it wouldn’t take long for something to reek in this heat.
It was 5.2 miles back to the Ice Lakes junction where we debated whether or not to camp here or up at the lakes at quarter after 9am. Camping at the lakes would mean a 11+ mile day and I knew part of it was a slog straight up with our entire packs. Our timing was not the best, we’d be doing it in the heat of the day. And then a 14 mile slog out tomorrow. But staying here meant a 17+ mile day with day packs and I didn’t know if I even had that in me.
We eventually opted for taking our packs to the lakes since that was our original plan. Secretly, I was hoping there was a camp along the way…
Down the short walk to the Entiat River crossing, there were several tents set up but no one around. Smart people to get going early! The river was not hard to ford, the log across was split and didn’t seem worth it to risk. Besides, my feet would love the ice bath. Once on the other side there was another campsite, empty. I briefly entertained the idea of setting up here but studying the map, I was so sure we would find something half way up so we kept packs intact. I reapplied fresh duct tape and up we went.
It was another death march up an exposed valley with the sun beating down. The Entiat Mountain Range towered regally on our left. I so wanted to die (and I was using a sun umbrella) and my silly hubby had had nothing but coffee so far for the day. Passing the junction with Pomas Creek Trail at just under 1 miles and 4420ft that only noticeable because of the sign and cairn, there was no obvious trail. We stopped at practically every piece of shade to drink and passed a couple also drinking who had camped down below that were heading up for the day. We shared a brief fools-love-misery conversation and I noticed the guy’s pack was twice the size of mine. For a day hike.
The further up the valley we climbed, the more the forest returned. The trail wandered closer to its first crossing of Ice Creek and we were blessed with a campsite at 4800ft! I guesstimated we were roughly 2.25-2.5 miles or so from the lower Ice Lake. Perfect! We dropped our packs and set up camp, ate a snack and got fresh water at the creek just down from camp. The couple we had passed came by, along with two guys and a dog, also day hiking to Ice Lakes. Seems that is what the smart people do.
Leaving our camp just before noon, we rock hopped the creek and continued on. The trail stayed pretty mellow elevation gain wise and was a mix of meadow and shaded forest. Waterfalls spilled over the mountain ridges and we came to another creek crossing with a large log. We stopped for lunch, soaked my feet and watched a cutthroat snap at lunch in the water. The couple we had seen the day before came down from Ice Lakes appearing to have survived. But their packs were pretty small, ultralight small. We were still at around 5100ft.
More meadow, more forest and we reached the last campsite at 5400ft with a little over mile left to go. One of the two guys who had had the dog was wisely resting in the shade while his friend continued on and I was a little jealous. The creek was not super close and it looked like you had to push through brush to get there.
The climb up into the lakes basin from here was probably the most brutal thing I’ve done in a long time, right at the peak temperature for the day and weekend. All exposed, overgrown and then loose rock. Definitely a climber’s path. We weren’t alone but not a lot of other silly fools doing the same. A very slow slog…so not happy. Lots of stops to drink water and rest so I didn’t pass out. The sun umbrella helped a little until the wind picked up and then it became a hazard threatening to flip me backwards. Whose idea was this anyway?? I was so glad that when we were here last year we only went for Larch Lakes instead. It took me an entire 2 hours to make that last distance 1400ft into the basin.
There were three groups that shared the lake with us and plenty of space to spread out. The lakeshore is yellow pumice and light granite and makes for interesting walking so as to stay on solid ground. There is a path around the lake and unfortunately a few social trails. We weren’t perfect at it but did our best to find a spot for dinner and stay on granite or the established path. I soaked my feet in the water which was pleasantly not glacial due to being shallow in spots. It was super windy at 7000 feet but it felt good after our climb and I only needed a light pullover and cap to stay warm. If we had had an earlier start for the day it would have been fun to continue up to the upper lake and walk up Mt. Maude but that would have to wait for another day. The larches were just starting to turn, give them a few more weeks.
Then it was back down to our camp, leaving the lake around 5pm to gratefully get off our feet in the tent just after 7pm and wonder if the wind would knock one of the dead trees nearby down on us. I jokingly thought about putting my helmet on but was so tired I just put my earplugs in and fell asleep. Gary says the wind died down shortly there after.
We were up at 5am this time and hiking in the dark with headlamps. It was about an 11 mile trek back to the car and we wanted to make it out before the sun hit the trail which had been about 8:30-9:00am so far. Aside from a stop so Gary could look for a geocache (long ago disintegrated by fire), we were out by 9:30am. Overall we had seen about 5 groups all weekend for a 44 mile trek. Still only a handful of cars in the lot, including some horse riders headed in. I was able to show them pictures of the logs down between there and Anthem and they went prepared with a chain saw so those logs are mostly gone now. We found out later the plume we thought was rising from above Myrtle was the Chikamin Fire and it had jumped close to Garland Peak. It was on our way out and back on SR 97 that the smoke rolled in from all the fires blowing up near Omak, luckily we didn’t have to deal with all that, too!
10/2/2019, 15.4 miles RT, 2641ft/5758ft, my GAIA
We had talked about an overnight on the Entiat River Trail to Ice Lakes but with the low temps and a late start, we opted to venture up to Larch Lakes instead. Turned out to be just the right destination and we had it all to ourselves.
Leaving the trailhead at noon, we walked along the Entiat River burn area enjoying the warm temperatures. T-shirts! The partly cloudy forecast meant that we stared at grey skies out in the distance and the peaks up to our left were obscured. We were not deterred! There were three groups walking out, only a handful of people. One couple said they were at Larch Lakes the night before and warned of cold. Thankfully, I had seen the forecast and we were prepared. At least I was. My hubby had forgotten his puffy but had at least 5 layers stuffed in his pack.
Not entirely certain what the ford or log crossing looked like on the actual Larch Lakes trail, we turned up on the Cow Creek Meadow Trail and crossed the lovely new bridge over the Entiat. Having been here when it was in shambles, it was quite the nice upgrade. Shortly after we kept right at the junction for Myrtle and skirted around on the north side of the lake. We were about 4 miles in so far.
The burn continued on the Cow Creek Meadow Trail and we had glimpses back down at Myrtle through the black spines of the forest. In .15 miles the trail split at an unmarked junction and we kept right again to parallel the Entiat on the connector trail towards the Larch Creek Trail. One tree to climb over and two streams to cross, we were there in less than a mile. It was hard to believe that part way through we had crossed into the Glacier Peak Wilderness.
A little after 2pm, we began our climb up on the Larch Creek Trail as it runs parallel to the creek. The trail itself is deeply eroded and choked with vegetation, most of where folks walk now is along side in the sooty, sandy soil. Still yet more burn area, the thin forest allowed to us to be able to gaze up at the crest we needed to reach to continue on to the lakes.
A mile later the trail took a shift to the north and switchbacks up through the wide open avalanche chute below the lakes. The fall colors were beautiful but the alder, aspen and birch meant the trail was overgrown every time it swept out from the forest. The trail was not hard to see, it just meant a lot of pushing, shoving and veggie belay to stay on it. There were scree washouts in several places but enough previous visitors one didn’t have to make their own path. It took us about another hour to make the next mile to where the trail begins to level out and approach the lower lake.
Larches were beginning to turn yellow on the slopes above, the ones we passed on the trail still had quite a bit of lime to them. As soon as we rounded the crest and moved along the first lake, it was time for more layers. A few flakes drifted down and the sun no longer provided any warmth.
The trail between the lower and upper lake had a few inches of snow, melted in patches. We arrived at the upper lake a little after 4pm and 7.45 miles in at about 5750 feet elevation. Continuing on another quarter mile, we stopped at a far campsite on the more western side of the lake that had some tree shelter. We quickly set up camp and made ourselves familiar with our surroundings. Turned out there were several other campsites tucked into the trees but no privy.
It wasn’t long before we had most of our layers on, including our outer rain shells to buffer the wind that was occasionally gusting. We knew we would probably be not doing much more than eating dinner and getting into our tent. The forecast had been for about .5” of snow and sunset was before 7pm. We thought we heard the whistle of an approaching hiker but no one materialized. Later we decided it must have been a bird with a human like call.
We filled a water bottle with hot water after eating dinner for my sleeping bag and bedded down for the night by 6:30pm. It was good timing, the wind picked up and snow was hitting the tent walls as if we were not welcome. We wondered how much snow accumulation we would have when we emerged the next morning.
To my surprise, it was one of the most comfortable shoulder season nights I have had, just enough padding, layers and insulation. When we peeled back our bags and reluctantly left the tent, there was little more than a dusting but quite a bit of frozen condensation on the fly. The sun was turning the ridge towering over the lake above a rosy glow. I have to saw that the Larch Lakes themselves are not that exciting, the upper actually more marshy than anything. But having it all to ourselves was priceless and the surrounding landscape was stunning.
Rolling out of camp around 7:30 am with a wet rain fly strapped to the top of one pack, we decided to retrace our steps the way we came rather than finish the loop out on the Cow Creek Meadow Trail. The views were much more crisp this morning and although we left with quite a few of our layers on, by the time we were heading down the switchbacks below the lower lake, it was back to just t-shirts.
Arriving at Myrtle Lake around 10am, we stopped for a late breakfast (having just eaten a few bars up at camp) and basked in the sun. It didn’t take long for the rainfly to dry and we were on our way again. We passed three groups going out, still just a handful of hikers.
On the way in the day before, it was obvious that trail work was happening. The tracks of an ATV of some kind were etched in the trail for at least 3 miles from the trailhead. Not only had the bridge over the Entiat been replaced, so had the one over Anthem Creek (both had been out when I was here last). All the effort appeared to be making the trail accessible this winter for outdoor recreation. I imagine the Entiat River Trail makes for a gorgeous winter scene.
We were back to the car sometime after noon and on our way to enjoy the Cascade Loop over SR 20 and a night in Winthrop. A great kick off to fall!
7/11/2018, 8.9 miles RT, 832ft/3821ft, my GAIA
I have a friend who recently moved to Entiat River Road and I decided to drive over and visit and take advantage by day hiking a few trails near her. I am SO jealous! She lives in the most beautiful place with so many options just down the road. There are numerous campgrounds and trails along this county road, including the trail to Larch Lakes, Ice Lakes and Mount Fernow.
The Entiat River Trail was the first hike we did for the day and it starts at the end of the Entiat River Road. It had been closed for two years due to to washouts and the trail was damaged in the Wolverine Fire from 2015. This is the same fire that ran along Lake Chelan and towards Holden Village and Stehekin leaving over 65,000 acres scarred.
The temperature promised to be a bit cooler than the previous day but we didn’t want to take any chances at the exposure so we started our hike around 8am. Our was goal was to wander as far as we could and still leave time for another short hike to Silver Falls which we would pass on our way home. The kiosk at the trailhead warned that two bridges were out, one at Anthem Creek and the other on the side trail to Myrtle Lake.
The parking lot was large, to allow for horse trailers I imagine, but we were one of only 3 cars. Another hiker we talked to had intended for Duncan Hill but was turned around by logs on the road before the trailhead and this trail was his consolation prize. He took off shortly and we had the trail to ourselves for most of the day morning.
The trail rambled through fire ravaged trees standing defiantly like kabob sticks with blackened sauce clinging to them but not universally. Some held tightly to their darkened hide while others were shedding with large pieces on the ground at their base, leaving more of a Doberman pinscher coloring. Some were gnarled and rough, others smooth like braided ebony hair. It was beautiful in its own right.
We walked about 1.5 miles before we came out along the river with its icy teal waters and glanced up at the peaks around us: Devil’s Smoke Stack, Duncan Hill, and Rampart Mountain. There were a few waterfalls cascading down through the rocky slopes below them. The trail was dry and powdery with green vegetation in contrast, fireweed and not-yet-ripe thimbleberry were prominent.
Anthem Creek was at about 2.5 miles in and although the bridge was out, there was not only a log for crossing but some planks that someone had placed where the trail goes down to the water. There had been a few seasonal streams before this but Anthem is of more significance.
At 3.6 miles in we reached the junction for Myrtle Lake marked by a cairn. We decided to take a chance and see what the river crossing might look like without a bridge so that we could go and check out Myrtle. We had passed a couple backpacking out who said they had stayed there so it must have been possible.
The trail snakes around a rock outcropping or knoll between the Entiat River Trail and Myrtle Lake which we couldn’t see from the trail but sat at the same height. Coming around the bend in just a few minutes, we could see the river below and we glanced ahead and saw an intact iron bridge. Hmmm. Looked good to us so we continued up to it only to find out why it was closed.
All the wooden planks were gone (duh) from the fire but it looked like someone had replaced the side rails on one side and laid down planks on that same side to “bridge” the gap between the girders. There is at least two steps of distance between them (you can’t just hop from on to another). None of it looked sturdy or safe but I decided I would walk out and see how it felt anyway. After some testing, we gave it a go and slowly made it across holding on to the side. Not for the faint of heart and be prepared for splinters!
From here we continued another .4 miles to a junction with the Cow Creek Meadow Trail that heads up into the Glacier Peak Wilderness and Garland Peak and then it was another .5 miles to the Myrtle Lake camping area on the far side of the lake.
The water of Myrtle Lake was a shimmery azure color and the surrounding slopes of granite reminded me of hiking in the Enchantments. We sat and snacked for a few minutes at the shoreline before retracing our steps back to the car. It was about 11:30am when we reached the junction and were back on the Entiat River Trail so we decided it was time to head back rather than continue further.
We were back to the car at 1pm and excited to go and find the refreshing waterfalls down the road. I also can’t wait to come back and visit her to explore more trails in this area!
*In full disclosure, one of the planks fell in as we walked back over the bridge. If I had to do it over again, I would ford the river at the horse ford that was just a bit up stream where it was smooth and shallow. Or wait until they fix the bridge. And I am still picking splinters out of my shirt from holding/sliding it along the railing as we made our way across.
Directions: The Entiat River Road is outside the town of Entiat, just south on SR 2/US-97 N. You can come over Stevens Pass on SR 2 and turn north at Wenatchee or over I-90 towards Ellensburg and turn north on 97 near Cle Elum. From the junction in Wenatchee, drive about 13.85 miles and then turn left onto the Entiat River Road. The trailhead is a little over 38.25 miles down where the road ends just past the Cottonwood campground. There is a bathroom here and at the trailhead. Northwest Forest Pass needed.
For more hikes in this area, see my Eastern WA or HWY 2 page.
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