I took a long weekend to spend some time down around Mount Rainier this March, hoping to not only revisit some places I had passed on the Wonderland Trail but to experience the park in the winter season for the first time.
Last year I shared my 2015 adventure here on the blog, retelling about how we had risen from our Paradise River campsite before dawn and made our way towards Reflection Lakes. Hearing the roar of Narada Falls, I had taken the short spur up for just a quick glance as we had a long day bound for Indian Bar. Since the falls themselves are not really a hike but a step down from the road and parking lot relegated to road trip stops, odds are I would not seek them out as a primary destination in the future. As you can tell there was barely any daylight, leaving me with nothing more than a grainy photo and the echo of the water for memories.
Coming back to my car after having first completed a snowshoeing loop up to Mazama Ridge in the morning that started from the same parking lot, it appeared that most people passing me were headed for the Narada Falls overlook. Despite my aversion to crowds, I took my chances and joined them. It turned out to be the perfect time to get a full view of the falls sans the summer masses before I got back in my car and headed down from the mountain after 3 days playing in the park.
The frozen precipitation has been generous this year and the berm built up around the parking lot meant a climb up and over onto a short and snowy 500 foot descent to what would normally be the cement viewing platform for the falls. Microspikes on my boots were helpful for traction and the snow made it possible to give others a wide berth.
Although I did not have the place to myself, the handful of other onlookers was nothing that would be expected in August. There was a trio standing close to the trail before it widened, so I took a few steps up the slope and between some trees to come back down to a more spacious spot.
I walked out as far as I could and still feel comfortable, knowing that the snow was likely built up around the edge and could slough off with weight. I was struck by the monochrome scene, the snow and ice clinging to the ebony andesite lava flow as I gazed across at the falls.
I peered down into the dark chasm below the 168 foot spidery veil of cascading water to see if I could spy the second level of the falls that drops into a pool. Unfortunately, my view was obscured and I had to imagine the inky Paradise River flowing under the thick blanket of snow.
I looked up where I could see the historic stone wall surrounding the parking lot and the bridge over the river that were constructed in the early 1900s. With this being the largest waterfall accessible by car, you would normally see a line of tourists peeking over during warmer temperatures but it was a solemn landscape. Even the voices of those nearby were muted as if in appreciation for the park’s current snowbound condition.
I closed my eyes and took in the moment with a deep breath of the frosty air enveloping me.
Who knew you could feel just a touch of solitude this close to the road? I much preferred it to the summer one I may have missed 6 years ago and highly recommend a winter visit!
Narada Falls is located between Longmire and Paradise in Mount Rainier National Park, 14.5 miles from the Nisqually Entrance near Ashford, Washington. There are bathrooms, picnic tables and a water fountain when conditions allow. You will need to pay the national park entrance fee or have an America The Beautiful Pass and the gate to Paradise will need to be open. If going during the winter, you can find out its status here. I spent the night before at Whittaker’s Bunkhouse and had a delicious salmon dinner at Copper Creek Inn.
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